Where have all the bees gone?

News headlines of late are sounding a disturbing alarm. Where have all the Bees Gone?
The culprits range from weather to pesticides but no one really seems to know why. What we do know is that if the bees are to be wiped out we’d take a 14 billion dollar hit on farmers crops. Honeybees don’t just make honey; they pollinate more than 90 of the tastiest flowering crops we have.Among them: apples, nuts, avocados, soybeans, asparagus, broccoli, celery, squash and cucumbers. And lots of the really sweet and tart stuff, too, including citrus fruit, peaches, kiwi, cherries, blueberries, cranberries, strawberries, cantaloupe and other melons.The scramble to figure out what to do next in order to insure nations and worlds food supply is in full gear.

Apparently this same thing happened back in the early 90’s and the bees were being killed by a parasite. Bees do not have great resistances in their gene make up and their gregarious nature helps problems like these spread.

The most likely scenarios seem to be a combination of weather extremes reported widely of bee researchers in Maryland to a parasite found throughout the world that now seems to have spread to Canada.The parasite is common in Asian bees and has spread to Europe and the Americas. The microscopic parasite is called ‘nosema ceranae’. Scientists have examined thousands of samples from stricken hives in many countries. The beginning premise was that it was pesticides causing the problems with the bees. Soon this was ruled out in that only small traces in a tiny percentage of the bees sampled had any lethal doses. Also some bee hives were dying miles away from any cultivated lands which would have no known exposure to pest control products. The spores of a parasite called ‘nosema apis’ were present in most samples but that certain parasite would only be active in wet weather and these bees were dying in dry as well as wet conditions. At that time it was decided to do a DNA test and it was found that ‘ceranae’ which is a deviant of ‘apis’ was found. This parasite can live in cold,wet and dry weather and a hive can be infected in 2 months and the hive will die in a couple of days thereafter. Although test have not as yet been done in American bee hives it is certain that this parasite is a main culprit of the worlds bee elimination.

Treatment for ‘nosema ceranae’ is effective and cheap but what remains an obstacle is bee keepers resistance to recognize this problem and it’s solution. It seems the blame is more on the side of weather conditions and mans pesticide applications which at the very least is lowering the bees resistance. Either way we need to solve this dilema so we can continue to enjoy the benefits one of natures perfect insects. Bees.

Posted in Bees and wasps | Tagged , , | 13 Comments

Rats and mice

many_holesAlmost everyone I know has had a mouse or two in their lifetime. For the most part you’ll get two different reactions to this ‘house guest’.
 #1 “Oh he’s so cute-I hate to get rid of him” #2  “AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWEEKKKKKKKK!” I doubt this article will change your mind regardless of which category you’re in but at least you’ll have a better understanding on rodents and how to rid yourself of this vermin.
Continue reading

Posted in Rats and Mice | 2 Comments

Tick Tick Tick

Growing up and playing for endless hours in the woods of the beautiful state of Iowa it wasn’t unusual to find a tick in your hair or in some other surprising spot from time to time. It always amazed me however that I rarely felt this ugly creature crawling on me let alone biting and attaching itself to me for hours or even days. (you definitely felt it when you pulled it out). Our pets would get ticks too and they would be so HUGE. Without any modern sprays or treatments we devised our own methods of exterminating these bloodsuckers. Lets just say it involved tools like, matches,magnifying glasses and ball peen hammers. It’s a good thing congress never caught wind of this or we might have been brought up on charges of torture to the enemy.

tick-explodes pestcemetery.comEven though every year ticks make national if not world wide news for the spread of Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and other diseases they represent only a very small percentage of work for licensed pest control operators. That trend is changing however. Reported cases of Lyme disease doubled in the 90’s and are over 15,000 or more per year at present. With population growth and more and more homes being built in wooded areas this seems like it will only increase. As tick cases increase so should our understanding and awareness of the steps we can all take to keep them at manageable levels.

Tick Facts:

 

  • There are over 850 tick species, about 100 of which are capable of transmitting diseases. Multiple diseases can be contracted from a single tick bite.

 

Ticks are bloodsucking external parasites that feed on humans, wild and domestic mammals, birds, reptiles and others. They are totally dependent on the blood/tissue fluids of the host. The longer an infective tick feeds, the greater the chance of infection.

Ticks are arachnids not insects.  ( relatives of the spider,scorpion, chigger and mite.)

Ticks have four life stages: egg, larva, nymph, and adult. The egg hatches into a larva. A larva (”seed” tick) has six legs. It feeds and moltstick-eggs-pest-cemetery into a nymph. A nymph has eight legs and no sex differentiation. It then feeds and molts into an adult. The adult is differentiated into male or female. The female requires a blood meal in order to lay eggs.

Ticks that feed on humans are usually found from ground level to three feet above the ground. ( not high in trees )

A tick uses carbon dioxide, scent, body heat, and other stimuli to find a host.

Ticks are among the most efficient carriers of disease because they attach firmly when sucking blood, feed slowly and may go unnoticed for a considerable time while feeding. Ticks take several days to complete feeding. Ticks are second only to mosquitoes as vectors of human disease.

Ticks do not fly or jump.

Ticks have a harpoon-like structure in their mouth area, known as a hypostome, that allows them to anchor themselves firmly in place while feeding. The hypostome has a series of barbs angled back, which is why they are so difficult to remove once they have penetrated a host.

The female adult Deer Tick can lay over 2000 eggs in one cluster.

Ticks can be active on winter days when the ground temperatures are about 45 degrees.

Ticks fully engorged with a blood meal can grow 7 to 10 times in size.

Ticks that affect humans

There are two groups of ticks, sometimes called the “hard” ticks and “soft” ticks. Hard ticks, like the common dog tick, have a hard shield just behind the mouth parts (sometimes incorrectly called the “head”); unfed hard ticks are shaped like a flat seed. Soft ticks do not have the hard shield and they are shaped like a large raisin. Soft ticks prefer to feed on birds or bats and are seldom encountered unless these animals are nesting or roosting in an occupied building.

tick comparison pestcemetery.comAlthough many different species of ticks occur in North America, only a few of these ticks are likely to be encountered by people: American dog tick, lone star tick, black legged (deer) tick, brown dog tick and winter tick.

One of the most frequently encountered ticks is the American dog tick, also sometimes known as the wood tick. The larvae and nymphs feed on small warm-blooded animals such as mice and birds. The adult American dog tick will feed on humans and medium to large mammals such as raccoons and dogs. Unfed males and females are reddish-brown and about 3/16-inch long. Females have a large silver-colored spot behind the head and will become ½-inch long after feeding or about the size of a small grape. Males have fine silver lines on the back and do not get much larger after feeding. Males are sometimes mistaken for other species of ticks because they appear so different from the female. The American dog tick can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever, tularemia and possibly ehrlichiosis to humans.

The lone star tick is primarily found in the southern half of the U.S., although it can occasionally be found further north. Larvae, nymphs and adults will feed on a variety of warm-blooded hosts, including people. The larva is very tiny, only a little larger than the period at the end of this sentence. The nymph, the most common stage found on people, is about pinhead-sized. Adults are about 1/8-inch long and brown. The adult female has a white spot in the middle of her back. Because they are so similar in size, the lone star tick is sometimes misidentified by laypersons as the black legged / deer tick. The lone star tick is most active from April through the end of July. Although it can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever, the lone star tick is not as likely to transmit the disease as the American dog tick. This tick also may transmit tularemia and ehrlichiosis to humans. The lone star tick is not believed to transmit the bacteria that causes Lyme disease (Borrelia burgdorferi), but may be associated with a related bacteria species that has not been completely identified.

All three active stages of the black legged / deer tick will feed on a variety of hosts including people. After the eggs hatch in the spring, the very tiny larvae feed primarily on white-footed mice or other small mammals. The following spring, the larvae molt into pinhead-sized, brown nymphs that will feed on mice, larger warm-blooded animals and people. In the fall, they molt into adults that feed primarily on deer, with the females laying eggs the following spring. Adults are reddish-brown and about 1/8-inch long (or about one-half the size of the more familiar female American dog tick). These ticks are found in wooded areas along trails. The larvae and nymphs are active in the spring and early summer; adults may be active in both the spring and fall. The black legged / deer tick can transmit Lyme disease and possibly ehrlichiosis to humans.

The brown dog tick (also known as the kennel tick) is found through most of the U.S. This tick feeds on dogs, but rarely bites people. Unlike the other species of ticks, its life cycle allows it to survive and develop indoors. The brown dog tick is found primarily in kennels or homes with dogs where it may be found hiding in cracks, behind radiators, under rugs and furniture, and on draperies and walls. The adult is reddish-brown and about 1/8-inch long, and usually attaches around the ears or between the toes of a dog to feed. After feeding, a female may engorge to ½-inch long. She then drops off the dog and crawls into a hiding place where she may lay as many as 3,000 eggs. This tick is tropical in origin and does not survive winters outdoors. The brown dog tick is not an important carrier of human disease.

The winter tick is a species that feeds on large mammals like deer, cattle and horses. Unlike the hard ticks mentioned above, the winter tick attaches to the host as a larva and remains attached throughout its life. Consequently, this tick is rarely encountered by campers or hikers. However, hunters may find the winter tick in large numbers on deer carcasses. Although the winter tick may carry diseases of large wild mammals, it is not known to transmit disease to humans.

How to Treat for Ticks

Tick treatment can be rough. It’s best in any pest control endeavor to get to the source and attack the critters there. Well if you live in a tick life cycle pestcemetery.comwooded area or a tick outbreak occurs in your neighborhood it is most times impossible to get to the root of the infestation. Without treatment of the pets I’m afraid your waisting your time. You won’t be able to safely or economically get every single place a tick may be but at least you can treat where you’re sure they will go.

Inside;

You’ll want to service for ticks almost as you would for fleas. Since ticks crawl you need to treat the floors and carpeted areas of the home. Products such as Conquer, Suspend SC, Ficam W or Demand CS all do a nice job on covering these areas. You need to add methropene in the mix also known as Pre Cor. This will help cut the life cycle of the tick giving greater control. For hardwood surfaces use Precor 2000 plus or Ultracide. These are aerosols and will not make the floors unnecessarily wet. Pay attention to all areas frequented by your pets as the ticks won’t be to far off. While ticks are digesting or not feeding some favorite spots to hide inside include; under couches, furniture legs, baseboards, cushions, bed frames and legs, cracks and crevices of pet cages, undisturbed low lying areas, etc.

Outside;

May be a bit more difficult but lets try. You can use granules in your treatment but I hardly ever do. It just doesn’t seem to give quick relief and is limited to the soil surface for the most part. Liquid sprays will be your best bet and most do it yourself or home improvement stores sell many insecticides. Always read the labels and use accordingly. For the exterior try to find a product that is ready to use. Several sprays come in ready to use form, just hook up your hose and turn sprayer on. The correct amount is siphoned up and sprayed out until the product is all gone. Concentrate on spraying areas that the pets run and stay frequently. Ticks use pet trails most often to latch on to pets as they pass by. Small bushes or plants need to be treated as well. Also do a perimeter barrier around the yard. This may help for any wandering ticks. As well as spraying you should keep tall grass to a minimum by mowing or weed whacking fence line and near structures. This will reduce the points ticks need to successfully grab onto your pets.

Well no one said tick work would ever be glamorous and not many pest companies are building whole routes on tick work alone. But if you find you’re dealing with a monster of a problem it may be worth your time and money to have a professional bug person attack the problem for you.

Posted in Ticks | 10 Comments

Bed bugs

“sleep tight, don’t let the bed bugs bite”

bed bugs pestcemetery.comEver hear that old saying? It came about in the early days before box springs. One would support the mattress which at that time was usually straw, with criss crossed  ropes and pulling the ropes ‘tight’ would keep it from sagging. This was believed to keep the bed bugs away however tight ropes didn’t stop the bed bugs and man has been struggling with them ever since.

Bed bugs are blood-sucking insects that feed at night. ‘ On you.’ Although they aren’t known to spread disease the bed-bug-nymph pestcemetery.comdiscomfort from their bites and the fear induced by the mere mention of their name is almost in epidemic proportions especially in the recent years. Bites usually only affect the surface and are small itchy red bumps. Sometimes they are found in a line or in clusters formation indicating multiple bites from the same hungry critter. Symptoms can vary and sometimes reactions can be much worse than described.

Living in mattresses, bedding, picture frames, cracks and crevices they are a formidable foe. Infestations are usually spread by a persons travel. Bed bugs ‘hitch’ rides in a persons luggage and come out in the dark hours of the night to feed. Hotels are especially vulnerable since different travelers use the rooms almost every night. Eventually that traveler comes home and not so long after, their home is infested with bed bugs and they need help.
Continue reading

Posted in Bed Bugs | 6 Comments

Black Widow spiders

A call came in today, “spiders come quick”. We sent out our tech and sure enough it was the dreaded Black Widow. The home had been vacant for some time and the new owner was remodeling with a plan to resell but he was going to live there in the time it took to fix up the place. Mind you this man is a professional motorcycle road racer, scuba diver, avid pilot and deals with 1000 pound animals on a daily basis for his job. But his knees sorta buckled when it came down to a tiny spider that didn’t even weigh 1/2 of an ounce. The Black Widow is a terrifying pest indeed and all totaled we did kill 20 or more around his home. Is our fear of Black Widows another product of misunderstanding?

Facts of the Black Widow

Not an insect and as such most residual sprays and treatment techniques fall short for their control long term.
Her bite can be some 15 times more poisonous that a Prairie Rattle Snake. Rarely does a Black Widow bite kill humans.

She lays 300 to 400 eggs—-the spider lings are not poisonous but they are cannibals.

Not a hunting spider she hides in dark moist places and her web is usually a mess with entangled debris.

Not always black. Some can be tanish or even a camo version.

Yes she sometimes kills her male counterpart after mating. (That’s how she got her name).

Where do Black Widow spiders live

Black Widows spiders are almost always found in undisturbed areas. That doesn’t always mean way up in the attic in the farthest hard to reach corner. On the contrary you probably pass a Black Widow spider everyday in your daily travel. This just means areas that things aren’t moved around a lot or in areas that are hard to access. Common areas include; garage door jams, under rails of porch rails, frame work of pool enclosures, under patio furniture, in the lips of flower vases, storage on shelving, etc. The list goes on but basically these spiders will set up shop where bugs frequent but will rarely be in plain sight. The widows nest is not a thing of beauty. It’s a very messy web that collects leaves and debris. Usually it will descend outward away from her resting spot with several ‘trip lines’ that intersect with an insects likely path of travel. Once a bug brushes up against the ‘line’ she goes into action. The bug may become entangled which makes her job easier. However this vixen is able to swoop down and actually lasso this meal with her web.  The widow uses this technique quite effectively against scorpions. Her eggs are almost always up in or real near her resting area. She spins an extra thick sheet of webbing to create a chamer where she’ll spend most of her time waiting for her next meal.

Fortunately, to kill the Black Widow almost any aerosol will do. Raid, wasp freeze, pyrethrins,HPX Invader, CB 40 or some other brand most—-However—-If you get to close or don’t aim right you may just make her mad. Liquid insecticides in a pump up sprayer will get her as well and you may be able to spray from a greater distance. Most times  the widow will come out from seclusion dance a bit and die. Give it some time before you venture back to investigate and try to then smash the widow with a stick, golf club, you get the idea. By doing so you reduce any chance of getting bit. Her eggs are white silk like balls sometimes with ’spikes’ around the perimeter. You’ll want to sweep those down and smash them as well.

Black widow with egg sac

Black widow with egg sac

Check carefully for any other widow activity and repeat the process or do the smart thing and call your professional ‘Bug Man’ out to rid you of this spider. That way you’ll have more time to plan your next sky diving adventure.

The truth about Americas most deadly spiders” is a free e-book which you can choose to download and read at your leisure. Simply sign up for my also free newsletter and it’s your to keep. This is the first of many detailed writings that I have planned and I truly hope that you’ll enjoy it and use the information to keep your home spider free. If you missed the sign up box when you logged onto my site simply fill out the newsletter request form at the right of this page and shoot me an e-mail and I’ll get it right to you.

Information is a powerful thing and I hope together we can put to rest any undue arachnophobia’s.

Grab Your Free Copy Below

Posted in Spiders | 14 Comments

German Roaches

german roach stages of life pestcemetery.comGerman Roaches are among mans most filthy and disgusting pest he has to deal with. It’s no wonder that in Germany they call them ‘Prussian Roaches’. I wouldn’t want them named after me either.

Getting rid of roaches is not an easy task. They’ve been around for 350 million years, are incredibly resilient, and the german roach if left alone can pair up and have as many as 60,000 offspring in 1 year. A roach can live up to a month without food but without water will die in 4 or 5 days. They prefer darkened areas and feel most comfortable in small cracks or crevices as thin as a dime. Their antennae are very keen at detecting differences in air pressure and pesticides. It’s your ‘air pressure’ created when entering a room that sends a roach scurrying rather than flipping on the light switch. And it’s the tiny micro dots of pesticide they detect on your counter-top from your recent spraying they avoid that makes killing them so difficult. German roach control is perhaps the most difficult even for the professional exterminator.

Control is aided greatly with sanitation. A truly professional ‘bugman’ will swallow his fear of hurting your feelings and ‘diplomatically’ tell you to ‘clean up your act.’ So I will do the same here. German roaches are so adept at living on the smallest crumbs or drops of water found under your sink or over flowing trash cans. If your home is less than tidy and you have the dreaded german roach, you have to clean up and keep it clean until the pest is eliminated at least.

OK, clean up is over now it’s time to treat. Start with a bright flashlight and some knee pads if you got em. Open drawers–no scratchunderside of sink pestcemetery.com that. Remove the drawers in the kitchen and get your head up in there. It’s a whole other world filled with ledges, bridges, voids, cracks and crevices. It’s much like a hidden condominium complex under the area you cook and clean on everyday. You may not see the actual roaches but tell-tale signs are their fecal matter that dots up the surface usually near their nest or resting spots. You may also see their antenna waving out over the edge of the crack or void they’re in. They see you now too! Next check your appliances much the same way. Pull the refrigerator out look in the motor areas, look at the electrical sockets, the microwave clock window, behind pictures or decorative wall hangings. Back splashes along the counter tops and the ever popular butcher block knife holder are just a few places that are common for these roaches.

Ok now how to treat. Sprays and baits used together can be quite effective but sprays applied on top of or over bait placements is a waste of time and money and NO control is the usual result. Why, because you’ve just contaminated your bait and the roaches will avoid both at this point. First apply your sprays. There are many on the market but if you can find one that has ‘Gentrol’ in it or buy it separately and add it in that is best. Gentrol is an IGR which is a growth regulator or ‘birth control’. This will prevent the roaches affected from reproducing. Choose areas such as baseboard cracks, hard to reach areas under the cabinets to spray or areas where visible bait would not be advisable. Check the label for areas approved for the product you’ve chosen. At this point you might want to reach for the aerosol which is ok to kill the runners. Just be careful to aim careful and not hit the bait placement spots you’ve picked out.

 hinge bait site pestcemetery.comBaits now are applied to areas such as cabinet hinges, ( a favorite spot for roaches ) areas under the sink and drawers you didn’t spray, on the edges of any electrical sockets that showed signs, the back of the fridge, the sides of the pulled out drawers, the guide rail they move on, microwave backing and frame work and the bottoms or framework of other appliances. The label of the baits you choose will also help determine areas of use, also there are many types of baits in many different formulations.( dry flowable, pre-packaged, gel syringe and liquids. Take time to read and compare and it wouldn’t hurt to have one or two different kinds. Results will vary so be prepared to retreat in a couple weeks all the while maintaining good sanitation.
 Happy Hunting!

Posted in Roaches | 10 Comments

Brown Recluse Spiders

The dreaded brown recluse.Perhaps no other spider has more bad press and instant culpability for bite wounds across America. Some 2000 bites per year are reported to poison control as brown recluse. Up to 80 % may be false. If you google brown recluse you get 1,030,000 results. People search the words brown recluse over 4000 times per day, probably much the same way you found this site. Fear and false information have made this spider into a national everyday problem but the truth may be far from that.
Continue reading

Posted in Spiders | 17 Comments

Choosing The Right Pest Control Company

“He looked like he just didn’t care”

That was the tag line of an article I read some 20 years ago in a ‘tech training’ publication my boss handed out every week and those words have stuck with me ever since. In pest control as in any service first impressions are long lasting and harder to change once set. With so many pest service companies out there how do you choose? Who can you trust to rid you of your problem while taking your care and well being in highest consideration? I can’t recommend any specific companies except mine of course if you’re in my area but if not I can give you a few things to look for and hopefully your results and experience will be a positive one.
Continue reading

Posted in Choosing a pest control company | 1 Comment

How did you get in here?

players spray for bugs pestcemetery.comOctober 5th, 2007 top of the 8th inning on cool evening with the game tied 1 to 1. 80,000 fans are on their feet and the teams are in an fierce battle with post season lives on the line. Both the Yankee players as well as the Cleveland Indians are intent on winning no matter what the cost. Pitchers are throwing their best stuff while hitters are fighting off the hurlers with broken bats, foul tips and anything that will keep them alive to swing again. Neither group of seasoned professionals willing to give an inch. This fall classic has all the ingredients of an epic climax.

No one saw it coming, not the dozens of lawn crew that manicured the field that day, not the facilities manager who has personally watched each piece of sod  installed and directed the aim of every sprinkler. Not even the players who warmed up just hours before the game even reported seeing a bug. Seemingly out of nowhere millions upon millions of flying bugs descended upon the players making it almost impossible to continue the game. Just as if it were a freak snow storm or a power outage there was little to nothing anyone could do. How could this happen? With all of the preparations, experts on hand and modern technology the only defense left to these finely tuned athletes was to swat and wave the bugs away from their faces to try and see clearly enough to continue playing the game. It took 4 extra innings to end it and Yankee fans probably feel robbed by something as small as a gnat.
Continue reading

Posted in Pest proofing series | 3 Comments

Put another bug on the fire

fireplace pestcemetery.comIt happens every year. The weather gets colder as the holiday season approaches. The sun sets earlier everyday as you bustle in from a long days work. Perhaps you’re in the mood for some Yule Tide cheer or just trying to put off the increase in your heating bill for just a little while longer.

Braving the chill you scoot out to that long forgotten pile of firewood you’ve collected all summer. You know the one behind the shed. You grab as much as your arms can carry hurrying back inside. Realizing it’s not enough you carry 3 or 4 more loads in and stack them near your fireplace. After a short while and most of the morning paper you’ve got yourself a nice crackling fire. AHHHHHHH, nice and warm. “What’s for dinner honey?”
Continue reading

Posted in Pest proofing series | Leave a comment

Stored Product Pests

Moths
It usually starts as a surprise, you find a small hard shell bug on the kitchen floor and wonder what it is and how it got in. Or up on the ceiling you see a lone moth just hanging out seemingly innocent and you yell down the hall to the kids to “keep that back door shut!” How bout that pesky one that keeps buzzing your face until you break out the raid and take your best shot. In each case the bug (singular) gets swept away or shot down and you go about your daily life.

With the bug you found still in the trash and forgotten about, it’s time for a late night snack. You open the pantry and peruse your choices. Hmmm, crackers, maybe some popcorn or some—-huh? what? There’s another bug just like the one earlier. I thought I killed that–huh?what? theres one, ooh another–oh my goodness theres a bunch what the? Oh how could this happen? Look at em all. That d@% bug man, I’m calling them tomorrow.

Has this happened to you? Chances are it has and it’s not surprising. When it comes to beetles their are over 250,000 species and they can thrive in almost any conceivable habitat. From swimming in pond scum to living under rocks or in and around animal manure. Moths too are quite numerous and eat our clothing, carpeting, or food stuffs. In fact, in most third world countries ’stored product pests’ are the main culprit for food shortages. With poor grain management techniques sometimes as much as 50% of stored grains become unusable due to a grain pest. Even in America we throw away perhaps 10% of all food products due to these insects alone.

It would be impossible to list and describe all of the species so we’ll just concentrate on the stored product pest you’re most likely to encounter and what you can do to eliminate the pest from your home.

Lets begin with moths. Moths are usually the end result of a life cycle so seeing them indicates 3 other stages that are’nt far away. Eggs, larva and pupae. So to rid one stage, (the adult moth) is only 1/3 of the battle and won’t result in elimination. The most common moth pests are;
Angoumois Moth which is considered a primary grain pest because they only attack whole grain. The larvae develop in undamaged grain, corn, barley, rye, oats, rice and other seeds. Excellent fliers they are often confused with the clothes moth however these pests are seen during daylight hours and clothes moths do not frequent out when the lights are on. Females lay about 40 eggs during her life on or near grain. The eggs hatch in 4 to 8 days and the larva bore into the whole grain where they feed. The larva go through 3 molts until fully developed (in that stage) which takes 2 to 3 weeks. Then they pupate in the kernel and emerge as adults in about 10 to 24 days. Usually they have 4 or 5 generations per year but as many as 12 in higher temperatures.

Indian Meal Moth. Also one of the most common stored product pests the Indian meal moth larva feed on loose flour or meal but can be found on whole grains as well. Dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, beans, crackers, biscuits, dog food, and red peppers make for quite the diet.The larva produce a webbing over the surface of the food they’re eating that gets filled with frass and feces. These insects usually over winter as larva. The females will lay as many as 400 eggs in 18 days.The larva move to cracks and crevices in the food material. Mature larva ready to pupate will often move away from the food to cracks and crevices in the area for protection. There are usually 4 to 6 generations per year, more if food supply and temperatures are favorable.

Mediterranean Flour Moth. Considered a major pest of flour mills they infest a wide variety of food stuffs. (much the same as the Indian meal moth) The larva also produce webbing in which they feed, at times this can get so heavy that it will clog the machinery at the mill and it needs to be shut down for cleaning. The female lays her eggs in the flour or other food and the eggs hatch in about 5 days. The larva feed in the webbing and become mature in about 40 days. Spinning a cocoon the larva then pupate for 8 to 12 days then emerging as adults. The entire cycle is about 10 weeks and they can have as many as 5 generations per year.

 

Control of moths;

 
#1 is to try and identify the pest. It may help you narrow your search as to possible food items infested.

# 2 you need to find the infested food products and discard them. You may see the larvae or tiny BB size holes chewed in the bags or boxes. Adult moths will often be trapped and visible as well.

#3 Remove everything from the cabinets where the food was stored, vacuum the cracks and seams of the shelves to remove any pupae or larvae and loose grain products in which they can infest later. If you have wire shelving it’s most likely the larvae will have dropped to the floor area and are in the cracks along the baseboard. At this time I suggest bleaching the area, wipe clean and let dry. You could then apply a residual insecticide to the cracks if you wish but it’s not likely to add to current control effort however the residual may kill wandering larvae later if you missed some or if another package was also infested. Lure traps with pheremones should then be placed in the immediate area to catch any missed adults. These can be purchased on line or at most pest do it yourself centers. (pricey though). The sticky trap used to catch the moths will get filled up quickly with the use of pheromones so I’d suggest using a vacuum attachment to suck up the moths hanging out near the area.

#4 Although we’re dealing with pantry issues don’t limit your efforts to just that area. Larvae and adults can and do show up sometimes far away from where the original infestation is. If you have birds, check the bag of seed, look at the dog biscuit box or the decorative corn or dried seed arrangement you may have on the wall or table. (this is a common place we find them around Thanksgiving time). Moths can be quite botersome and make life downright miserable if left unchecked. If the amount of food you have to discard is too great you can always throw the foodstuffs in the freezer. This will halt any further development and you can cook the food later. (Eck, I can’t believe I just said that, but it is an option I guess)

Since mouse and rat baits are also made of grain products, check to see if that isn’t the source. You may have placed some behind the fridge years ago and forgotten it. Look for any foodstuffs that could support this infestation, an old cereal box or spilled pasta, anything anywhere. It usually does not take much so no small amount should be overlooked. Generally they’ll give their position away if you follow the trail back to the source.

Beetles
Much like the moth, beetles and weevils are in constant competition for our food. Lets see if we can keep em out.

 

 

The Drugstore Beetle female will lay her eggs on a food source or many food
sources if available. She can lay as many as 75 eggs in her lifetime. Temperature and relative humidity play a huge roll on numbers and development for this beetle. Anything around 85 degrees with 60 % or higher relative humidity is optimum. From egg to adult can take 5 months under ideal conditions but more commonly it takes 7 months. In most cases there are 4 generations per year. This beetle can easily chew through food packaging and is commonly found in books as well.

Cigarette Beetle gets is name from it’s serious tobacco infestations. The female lays 30 to 40 eggs over a period of several weeks, usually in tobacco or some other suitable food source. The larva hatch in about 6 to 10 days. The larva avoid light and take 5 to 10 weeks to mature enough to enter the pupal stage. The entire cycle can take up to 90 days with as many as 6 or more over lapping generations per year. The shorter life cycle allows quicker build up of this beetle and the adults are proficient fliers which allows the infestation to spread to uninfected areas. They prefer low lit areas but like the drugstore beetle they can be found in a variety of food products. The key to controlling these beetles is finding the breeding source which can be a very small amount of food in a crack or crevice that has accumulated. It does not take much spillage at all to perpetuate a severe beetle infestation. Once the areas or infested products are found the same basic steps listed in the moth section above are needed to eradicate these pests. There are lure traps but don’t get the wrong one because of a misidentification, moth lures won’t attract beetles and vice versa.

Cigarette Beetles are often confused for weevils, the heads of both are not visible from above, both dark brown in color and they can be found in many of the same places. The main difference you will be able to see is that of the wing covers (elytra).Most of us consider it the ’shell’. The drugstore beetle has rows of longitudinal grooves while the cigarette beetles has no grooves and is smooth. Both beetles are external feeders which means they will attack whole grains from the outside of the kernel although they are more commonly found in processed grains. These two are the most commonly found beetles inside homes where they feed on cereals, pet foods, spices and drugs. (also on vegetable material such as tobacco)

Granary Weevils are considered the most economically important to whole grain throughout the world. Weevils are basically beetles with ’snouts’. Well not all weevils have the snout but the rice and granary weevils do and it’s what makes them easily recognizable. The snout extends from the front of the head downward and at the tip are found the weevils mouth parts. Both the rice and granary weevils closely resemble each other. 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch and are dark to reddish brown. The main visible difference is that each weevil has pits on the prothorax. (the area just behind the head) Rice weevils are round while the granary’s are oval. rice weevils can fly while granary cannot. Even though these weevils are present throughout the world, the granary weevil is found more in the northern states and can withstand colder weather while the rice weevils need it warmer and therefore are more prevalent in the south. Another interesting fact is that these weevils ‘play dead’ when disturbed for several minutes as a defense against would be predators. The female chews a hole into a kernel of grain and deposits an egg. She then seals the hole and moves to the next kernel. Her life span is 4 to 5 months and she’ll lay approximately 300 to 400 eggs during that time. As a general rule only 50% of the eggs ever hatch. The larva live and eat the inside of the kernel till maturing which can be as little as 26 days under ideal conditions but usually takes longer. When pupation is done the adult weevil chews a hole in the kernel to exit through but does not seal it up. Both weevils are internal feeders primarily feeding on whole grain but have been found on macaroni, spaghetti and old pasta when it becomes old and caked. Inspection and control tips are the same as listed above- just be sure to be thorough.

Here are some unexpected places where you may find these critters. Animal carcasses, cork boards, accumulations of rodent, bird and bat droppings, dried flower arrangements, bean or seed mosaics, pepper wreaths and dried peppers, bean bag toys and chairs, fish food, drugs, art brushes made of animal hair, stuffing in upholstered furniture, decorative Indian corn arrangements, leather goods, bird and rodent nests, silk linings of suitcases and trunks, packing material made from corn starch, rodent bait, stored flower bulbs, bird seed, stuffed dolls and animals, wall tapestries, tobacco, poupourri, old books, bone meal, feather, and insect collections.

Control methods for beetles and weevils is pretty much the same as for moths just make sure no stone is left unturned in searching for the infested product. That will be key to elimination of these pests in every case.

Lesser Grain Beetle, Larger Grain Borer, Bean and Cowpea Weevils, Groundnut Bruchid, Warehouse and Cabinet Beetles, Sap Beetles, Squarenecked Grain Beetle, Sawtoothed and Merchant Beetles, Flat and Rusty Grain Beetles, Red and Confused Flour Beetles, Spider Beetles, Cadelle, Yellow and Dark Mealworm Beetles and Lesser Meal are other pantry pest’s to look out for.

There is quite a variety but for the better part of 25 years I’ve only seen a few of the odd infestations listed above but countless calls have been due to the featured stored product pests written I have written on. So the next time you see a wandering beetle or a fluttering moth, do a little look see in the pantry. You may have unwanted dinner guests.

Posted in Pantry Pests/Grain Moths and Beetles | 7 Comments

The Flea Circus in Your Home

You ever wonder how a flea in a flea circus is trained? How do they get those little insects to jump around and seemingly do tricks in a tiny little area without jumping up and out of there? Well, the ‘trainer’ simply puts a glass bowl over the fleas and conditions them to only jump so far. I guess you’d stop jumping as high as you could too if you kept hitting your head against an invisible wall. Eventually you’d only jump just so far and become so conditioned to your limits that even when the barrier was lifted you would still stay in your boundary.

When it comes to flea control many are still bound by years of limits, ideas and methods. Lets see if we can get you ‘past’ your limits and enjoy some flea free living.

Female fleas can lay up to 400 eggs per year;

Royalty of long ago use to wear full length fur coats not as a sign of status but as an attempt to keep the fleas off their skin;

The flea on the rat was the vector of “Black Death” (bubonic plague) which killed millions of people, not the rat itself;

Fleas can jump 17 inches vertically, the equivalent of a man jumping a sky scraper;

Flea pupae can remain dormant for up to two years only to emerge when conditions are ripe;

Fleas cause tapeworm;

Flea dips and shampoos are great for quick relief but they reduce the animals natural oils on the skin which in turn limits the effectiveness of treatments such as Advantage. Skin oils will build back up after a couple of days and at that time such treatments can be given for maximum effectiveness;

Flea Control Questions

For as long as there have been fleas, man has devised many ways to rid himself of the potentially deadly pest. Let’s begin our control program with a couple of questions. First what type of animal do you have? Or do you have any pets at all? With most pests this would not matter but when trying to rid yourself of fleas this can be paramount. If your answer was a dog then your control techniques will differ of that if you said a cat. You see flea eggs, larvae and pupae and indeed the adult fleas themselves will be centered around where they can get food. Dogs may sleep on the floor, maybe your couch, front porch, outside in a dog house, etc. However your cat may spend long afternoons snoozing on top of your dresser or on top of a kitchen counter top. Our cat disappears for days at a time under our bed up in the framework through a hole she created in the mattress backing. All of these areas need to be looked at for sure since thoroughness is a big part of any flea control program but you could eliminate treatment of the dresser tops if all you have is a 8 pound Schnauzer. Unless he’s quite the acrobat.

If you said no pets then you’ll need to put on the detective hat. Perhaps you have a mouse living behind the refrigerator that you haven’t got around to taking care of yet. Maybe you have squirrels in the attic but more than likely it’s that your home was recently visited by a neighbor and his dog or pet. Maybe a relative that came to visit with ‘Fluffy’ the cat that travels with them everywhere they go. Answering these questions FIRST will go a long way into dealing with ridding your home of fleas. Each household is different and no set program works in each situation.

Fight Back

Whether it’s kitty cats or big bruiser the Saint Bernard you should treat your animal first. There are many products on the marketplace that advertise flea free pets. From ticks and fleas to tape and heart worm.

As a Pest Control Technician it’s not my place or expertise to recommend any of them. However I can tell you what I don’t endorse. Off brand knock-offs that are 1/2 price or the dreaded double doses. snake oil salesman pestcemeterySuch treatments only double the chances of bad things happening to your pets. Not seeking your veterinarians advice may mean you may save a few bucks but it’s never a good idea. They are Doctors and know far more than you and I about your pets health and well being.

Well you get the idea but the point is you must treat your animal first or even better the same day as your home and or yard is being treated. Many pest companies (including mine) will not even take the work unless you agree to having your pets treated. Years of call backs and unhappy customers don’t lie. Fleas infest for a reason and that reason must be dealt with just as much as the places they will be hopping around. If you said no pets this rule still applies. If it’s mice in the home or squirrels in the attic you must rid your home of this source. This may take a professional but no matter it’s still essential because if the source is not dealt with the fleas will keep returning.

Next you need to prepare for the treatment. All surfaces where pets frequent need to be vacuumed, dusted, wiped down or laundered. You’ll have more work with a cat infestation. ahem, I mean having a lovely cat for a pet. Remember they can go just about anywhere and therefore so can the flea.

Where to Treat

Well the most obvious places to apply flea products is the carpet. Flea bodies are designed to move quite effectively in the thick hair of animals. Carpets are much the same. It provides good protection and ample chances that ‘Fluffy’ will be frequenting by offering up a ‘blood meal’ on a regular basis. Furniture is another good spot. Animals love the ‘Lazy Boy’ as much as you do. Not only will adult fleas be found reclining watching the game but flea eggs are often laid on the host but are not cemented in or attached so they roll off and will land on the cushion and end up down the edges under the padding and hatch later. Any favorite spot of your pets will be a place to pay special attention. Remember what we said about the difference between cats and dogs. Darkened areas such as under the edges of any throw rugs or under the first few inches of a couch, chair, bed etc. This is because flea larvae tend to wriggle to these darker areas for protection and seclusion. There they gather debris such as pet hair and begin to pupate. As a pupae they will lay in this protected area until they emerge a adult flea. A hungry adult flea.

We haven’t even begun to explore the outside yet. This is a major key if you have outside pets and may require a pest control company unless of course you have say a 100 gallon spray rig handy. Do it yourself or big box stores do sell bottles of ready to spray mixes for the lawns that simply hook to your garden hose if you don’t have a professional rig. Make sure to treat dog runs or paths your pets frequent and shady areas for reasons described above. Any dog houses or areas where the animals lay i.e.; under your work shed or in a hole dug near the side of the house. If the neighbors yard is the source of your infestation this makes it especially difficult. Physical barriers such as privacy fences may provide a little relief but I doubt much. If you are in good standing with your neighbor perhaps you can coordinate treating both yards at the same time. If not you’ll need to treat the area more frequently and perhaps try to limit your pets from getting to close to the property line until things have calmed down.

What to Use

There are a lot of  sprays that can be used to treat for fleas. The most important ingredient you need to look for however is ‘methroprene’. Its most common trade name is pre-cor. Fleas have a complete metamorphosis-egg,larva,pupae and adult. Pre cor cuts this life cycle and doesn’t allow for it’s completion. You can buy this product separately and add it to an adulticide or it can come pre package combing the igr( integrated growth regulator) and the chemical that will kill adults too.

Ready made flea mix

This usually comes in an aerosol form. Look for Pre Cor 2000 or 2000 plus as well as Ultracide in easy to use 16 ounce cans. I find this to be the quickest and most convenient to home owners. Mixing liquids is fine and just as effective but you need to be careful to stay off treated areas until dry. The aerosol allows for furniture treatment, carpets, flooring, etc. and dries very quickly. Most cans of this spray are held upside down to dispense so wear a glove when treating because your finger tip gets wet from the tip.

Treatment tips

Working backwards out of a room move briskly and make sure to treat under furniture as described above. Remove couch cushions,  and treat seams especially well. Close the doors as you go and move from room to room until getting to the exit. Any toys left on the floor or pet dishes that didn’t get picked up need to be washed thoroughly. If you are treated with a liquid sprayer simply follow these same rules. Most of the products available adhere to the surfaces sprayed so I would vacuum vigorously and often once the treatment has dried. This will get the fleas hopping and into more of the treatment thus dying quicker.
Some areas you may not think of but are very important; Your car, you took ‘Fluffy’ to the vet right? You may have a source of fleas right there with you in the mini-van and it causes re-infestation even if you’ve done everything else correctly. Window sills is another favorite spot of cats and many times a simple dusting or swipe with a damp cloth will pick up fallen flea eggs. Attics, if indeed you had squirrels or birds in the attic you’ll need to treat for the fleas they left behind. Usually this requires fogging and again a certified pest control professional is your best bet.

There are probably many more areas that could be listed whether your property is 1/4 acre or a 50 acre horse farm. Start with your basic questions and you’ll begin to see the areas needing treatment and the areas that could do without. You must be thorough when treating for fleas and a little bit of patients is needed for the treatment to work. So you now have some better idea on how to treat for fleas.

Now all you have to do is Hop To It!

 

650 Free Shipping Items at National Pet Pharmacy


Posted in Fleas | 5 Comments

Termites What to look for

termite exterminator
If you want to strike fear in the heart of a pest control branch manager or inspector. Simply call them after they have done a termite inspection and say “you missed something and you need them out right away.” Any papers in their hand will go flying or any lunch will be tossed over the shoulder as they bolt for the truck and speed your way while thoughts of lawyers and Judge Judy fill their head. No other category in the pest control business causes more litigation, loss of revenue, reputation and lack of sleep as the termite inspection. Not the actual job itself where you may use 200 gallons or more of termiticide. Use heavy hammer drills, tile cutters, pull carpets, cut bath traps and trample bushes and landscape as you treat the home. No it’s the inspection where no chemicals are used and no invasive tools are usually allowed. Save of course, a flashlight and a screwdriver used to ‘tap’ baseboards. If this seems unfair to you then perhaps you are a pest control operator who found this site and decided to read. Most homeowners however believe that once they have “passed” a termite inspection they should have no problem whatsoever and once more believe the inspection is guaranteed and if they do discover an infestation it’s the bug companies responsibility to treat and fix the problem and or damage. Continue reading

Posted in Termites | 1 Comment

Subterranean Termites

Such a destructive force of nature, so small and so misunderstood. Did you know termites out weigh humans on earth? Or that they were the number one destroyer of paper money? I’ll bet you had no idea that they produce more methane/C02 gas than any other organism. Al Gore should be an advocate of pest control companies. (my guess is that he no idea)

Able to fit through tiny cracks less than 1/64 of an inch, silent and totally blind termites do more damage to homes than storms and fires combined. Most home owners have no idea that their home has been invaded until significant damage has been done. The average size ‘mature’ colony is at least 60,000 strong and that is only a 2 to 3 year process. Many colonies exceed into the millions in short order once established. These ‘mature’ colonies produce swarmer termites that can come out of a pin hole in your wall by the tens of thousands only to disappear back into the dark abyss leaving the only clue a homeowner sees as they come home from work–.thousands of tiny wings on the floor and window sill in a room of their home. A curious look and a quick vacuum and all is forgotten. Perhaps later that year or some year after the window sill begins to sag and ‘mud’ seems to be growing out of the drywall. A call to a local pest company and complete shock ensues. TERMITES!, how can this happen? How long have they been there? How did they get in? How MUCH did you say to treat for them?$$$$$$$$$$$
Continue reading

Posted in Termites | 2 Comments