Spraying in the rain

It never fails that on a rainy day we always get the calls to reschedule. People don’t want their barrier to be washed away so they insist we come back when the sun comes out.

Today was one of those rainy days and as predicted our phone started ringing. Our usual answer is to try and explain that “it’s not raining under your eaves.” We let our clients know that the barrier will be fine and actually our granules we place need water to help activate them. If you ever take time to watch the rain from your window you’ll see that what I’m saying is true; in fact the walls of your home rarely get wet from the rain because they are protected by the overhangs. Of course during all out down pours or lightning we may hang out awhile in our trucks and listen to the radio. Nobody likes getting drenched and holding metal sprayers with bolts of electricity coming out of the sky is never a good thing.

Truthfully it doesn’t affect your treatment in any way since it is usually dry around the windows, door frames and eaves which is where we spray anyway. Besides, if the rain were that detrimental, wouldn’t we need to come back each and every time it rained to retreat? How about snow? Unless as I say, it’s a torrential down pour or it’s coming down sideways I always keep working. We have all the gear to keep us relatively dry and I always take off my shoes anyway when I enter a home. (A habit from my wife) If you don’t mind me a little wet, I’ll be happy to do your service.

So, if you have an appointment set up for pest control and it begins to rain, don’t reach for the phone. If it rains really hard maybe you and your bug man can listen to the radio for awhile.

Posted in In my opinion | 2 Comments

Termites: To bait or not to bait

Baiting for termite control has been increasing in demand as of late but it did seem to drop off significantly for a few years with the emergence of such liquid products like Termidor and Premise.

Termite baiting still remains a mystery to many consumers even though it’s been on the market for over 10 years. Most people are of the opinion that ‘baiting’ for termites will in effect bring them to your front door. Or that baiting one time is all that’s needed and consider it a full and complete job.

Baiting termites can be very effective and is considered a safer use of insecticides and more environmentally friendly. To do a standard liquid termite job you may need a couple hundred gallons of mix while with baits you would use very small amount. 1/25,000 of actual active ingredient is used in baits as compared to liquid mixes. This is usually very appealing to people concerned for their health and surroundings.

How baiting works

The basic idea of baits is to get the termites to eat a sufficient amount of poison to kill the entire colony. To do this most bait systems place stations in the ground around your home. These stations have wood or other cellulose material in it that the termites quickly begin eating. When the termites ‘strike’ a station it either has the bait in it already or it is placed in the station by the technician. The matrix (which is the carrier for the active ingredient) is usually made up of a material that termites actually prefer over wood such as shredded paper, cardboard or other like compound.

Once termites establish the station as a feeding zone more termites come to join the feast, they fill their bellies and take the food and poison bait back down to the colony. Termites are social and all have their own jobs to do. The termites that do not leave the nest still need to eat and they do this via trophallaxis. In other words the workers who gathered it now regurgitate the cellulose material and they eat it. Gross. They repeat this process more than once usually and also pass a much needed protozoa back and forth the same way. You see, termites cannot digest cellulose (wood) by themselves; they need a tiny one cell organism in their gut to process the wood they’ve eaten and turn it into sugar. If a termite finds himself without this it will stroke another worker to entice it to trophalactically give his up. In so doing, any active ingredient from the bait consumed gets passed as well.

The ways in which baits kill can vary. Some are stomach poisoning and others are chitin inhibitors. Stomach poisoning baits may not be as effective simply because they act to quickly. If thousands of termites are suddenly dying they may abandon all food sources and look for new as a way to protect themselves. Chitin inhibitors work by blocking a termite’s ability to molt. If the termite is not able to shed its skin it will die a slow and painful death. Not all termites molt at the same time because they are different ages and are at different stages of life so association of death with the bait is less likely. They continue to feed as normal and more and more die until all are gone.

Problems with baiting

Baiting termite’s number one detractor is the time it may take to kill the colony once feeding is established. I’ve seen baiting work as quickly as 3 months and watched helplessly when it’s taken over a year.

Although baiting is not as disruptive as a full drill termite liquid job it is labor intensive. Most systems call for bait checks every 3 months so instead of seeing your termite man once per year, you’ll have him a minimum of 4.

Sadly one other problem also involves labor. Some companies jumped with both feet on the bait systems only to find out how much work it really is. Some sites out there get neglected or forgotten altogether except around renewal time. Abandoned stations don’t kill termites so make sure you have a company that is committed to the bait program they are trying to sell you.

Most bait contracts either exclude damage guarantees or have provisions in them that only allow that to kick in after a certain amount of time. This could be 1 to 2 years on most contracts. Liquid agreements generally start from day one.

Benefits with baiting

Obviously the far less use of a chemical to get the same result is most desirable. It’s very low in toxicity to mammals as well which can make most homeowners rest easier.

Conclusion

Baiting comes down to a preference for most people, either they want the benefits of termite work without the mess and chemicals of a liquid job or they’d prefer not to have a constant service visiting their home every couple of months meandering across their property. When considering a bait system for your home make sure to address the negatives with your salesman to see his response for the system he’s selling. There are many different systems with added features and benefits but my list addresses the main problems and benefits all of them share.

If you can think of any others or have more specific concerns, let me know. I’ll be happy to help.

Posted in Termites | 4 Comments

Glowing feces may help our troops

Fluorescent feces are being studied right now at Louisiana State University. The goal is the eradication of Sand flies whose larva eat the fecal matter. The researchers feed rats a chemical that is harmless to them but lethal doses come out in the excrement. To show that this product worked scientists at LSU used dye to track the product and under fluorescent lights even the dropping glowed.

Other studies are also being done to help our troops abroad to fight mosquitoes, flesh flies and Black Legged ticks. This type of research although beneficial to our brave soldiers in uniform will also benefit the rest of the population when the research is done.

Fighting bugs is a “global perpetual need,” said program coordinator Graham B. White of the Armed Forces Pest Management Board. “Even if nobody went to war for a long time, these things would still need to be developed.”

Our brave men and women are putting their lives on the line for our freedoms and way of life but they can’t be very effective if they get sick from an insect borne disease. Kudos to LSU and that comes from a diehard Gator fan.

Posted in Pests in the news | Leave a comment

German Roaches ‘on my day off’

I have been looking forward to this day all week. I made sure to work an hour or so extra each day and get all the lingering things done I could and what happens?

Ring Ring

Sometimes I hate that phone but I love a paycheck more so when I got the call to deal with a “horrific” roach problem I decided to get it done.

Upon arriving I was a little miffed to say the least; there were not 1000’s of roaches hanging on the ceiling like I would have thought. Instead there were just a few visible at first but about 10 minutes in I realized that there was more to this job then met the eye.

The carpet was dark so I didn’t notice the German roaches walking about until I started to treat. The home was a vacant rental so nothing was in my way and I decided to take pictures to show you how a roach job is done. The first picture shows hardly any roaches and the last should depict how many were truly there. This job doesn’t even come close to the worst jobs I’ve see (just this month) but illustrates that first looks can be deceiving and when you’re dealing with German roaches you can’t leave anything to chance.

Before going in I selected my weapons

Before going in I selected my weapons

No roaches visible when I first arrived

No roaches visible when I first arrived

Roach fecal matter and a live one under cabinet,I'm getting closer

Roach fecal matter and a live one under cabinet,I'm getting closer

Yummy, Roaches in the fridge, it's time to break out the big guns

Yummy, Roaches in the fridge, it's time to break out the big guns

Refridgerator door seals are also a favorite spot

Refridgerator door seals are also a favorite spot

Treating the drawer glide rails, always a forgotten spot

Treating the drawer glide rails, always a forgotten spot

Dusting the dishwasher voids, very important (top right)

Dusting the dishwasher voids, very important (top right)

Don't forget the dishwasher door, lots of hiding places

Don't forget the dishwasher door, lots of hiding places

I started to suspect they were under the carpet

I started to suspect they were under the carpet

I was right

I was right

All in all, I guess I got a few

All in all, I guess I got a few

Posted in Roaches | 4 Comments

Making your own glue traps

Years ago when I first started in my pest control career, I had to make my own glue boards. It was sort of like when I was a short order cook, things were pretty sloppy until I got the hang of it. You didn’t want a sandwich from me. I’d mash it, put 2 tons of mayonnaise on it, tear the bread and just really made a mess. Good thing I switched careers.

Now days of course you can buy all sorts of sticky traps to catch just about anything; roaches, mice, white flies, rats, spiders and the list goes on and on. So why make them? Well in today’s economy you may find it cheaper and you can also custom make your traps to fit your unique situation.

First let’s talk about what kind of glue to get. Anything that dries of course is out of the question so put the Elmer’s back in the drawer. Several brands of glue are available such as Tangle foot, Tack Trap and Catch master. They come in small or large containers and have all the directions. Most any do it yourself pest control store will have it or you can easily find it on line. I’ve even used aerosol spray glue and done alright with it but it does dry out after a few days. You can also make your own glue material if you are so inclined. A quart of water and a quart of corn syrup mixed up and brought to a boil will make a nice sticky glue you can use. Petroleum jelly works rather well and some folks I’ve heard use old motor oil but I really think that’s a bit much.

Now that you have your sticky of choice, choose what to put it on to catch your prey. If you’re after White flies or Aphids use bright yellow construction paper or cardboard. They are attracted to the color and you’ll fill up the trap in no time. For a mouse you might choose a small pizza or shoe box. Simply cut out an entry hole on both sides. For smaller insects like roaches and crawling insects it’s as simple as a piece of paper, cardboard or just about anything small and disposable. Use your imagination and you can tailor your sticky trap to fit any situation.

To apply the glue you need a plastic spoon or knife coated with liquid soap. (Not much, just a thin layer) You may need a sturdier tool like a butter knife or scissors if you buy the gallon size glue to scoop out what you need and cut it. These tools also need to be coated with soap. Then simply lay the glue on your trap and spread it around. A very thin layer is all that’s needed for insects but go a little thicker for rodents.

Now all you need is to place the sticky and wait for your bug. If he isn’t as cooperative as you like you can smear some peanut butter in the center of the trap or a piece of fruit might work as well. For flying insects simply punch a hole in the top of your trap and hang it with string or secure it to a popsicle stick and place it in the soil of your planter.

If you make extra sticky traps for later, you can size and cut out a piece of wax paper to place over the glue until you’re ready to use it. The paper will peel back easily and you’re in business.

The traps you make won’t be perfect but they’ll be just as effective as any store bought brand and the sealed container of glue should stay good for years of future use.

So have fun, keep the cat away while you’re making your traps; I’m kind of hungry, I think I’ll go make myself a sandwich.

Posted in Tools of the trade | 22 Comments

Fire ants in Oklahoma

At least 38 counties in Oklahoma have been infested with Imported Fire Ants; 20 of those are under federal quarantine to try and stop the spread. The map below doesn’t even show them in Oklahoma yet but does give you an idea of how fast and far they’ve gone.

We’re never going to completely eradicate the fire ant, but we can slow the spread,” said Jeanetta Cooper, the agricultural services administrator for the state Agriculture, Food and Forestry Department.

Fire ants were first introduced to America in 1918 to a ship port in Alabama. (Some say Georgia) They have since spread to every southern state and now are making their march northward. There are some 280 different species and they can be found mostly in Taiwan, Australia, China and the Philippines.

The Fire Ant is an invasive species that tends to drive ‘competition’ out as they lay claim to your yard or the fields they inhabit. 5 billion dollars is spent in the U.S. alone for medical treatment, control efforts and damage due to this tiny creature. New products come out almost annually but nothing seems to keep up with their spread.

Fire ants build characteristic mounds that either tower up to 2 feet high or spread along the ground with many entry holes visible depending on the species. The queen’s chambers may be 2 to 3 feet below the surface making total elimination difficult. She lays up to 1500 eggs per day and many kinds of Fire ants have multiple queens. You may need a calculator to do that math.

Baits can work particularly well such as Amdro or Maxforce. They readily take the food down to the ‘processing’ area where the larvae chew up the solid bait and turn it into a liquid (adult ants can’t eat solid food) which they excrete and the adults can eat. The queen however is fed later in this process as a security measure. If the bait acts to quickly and 1000’s begin to die off, she won’t eat and she lives to replenishes the colony. This in this case may only take a few days.

To many homeowners store there unused baits in sheds or garages where it gets real hot. This heat will cook the bait and ruin the palatability of the bait and may just create a chemical breakdown so it’s no good even if they do eat it. I always recommend baiting in the cooler evening hours when more ants are out and the sun is not so hot for best results.

Drenching mounds make be satisfying for the moment, seeing hundreds of dying ants at your mercy but unless you have a treating rod to inject deep in the soil or use a WHOLE bunch of pesticide you may only get most of the ants but not all. Granules are not so effective because of its slower mode of action and the ants will simply move to an untreated spot. Some granule products are made to create a dead zone layer across your entire yard and this can last up to a year but the price of a 50 lb. bag is pretty steep and it takes at least 30 days to kick in.

All in all Fire ants are a serious problem that is spreading out across the country. When they adapt to the cold and the snow then you folks in Minnesota might be known for more than just your lakes and an indoor football team.

Posted in Ants | 1 Comment

3 Easy steps to get rid of Earwigs

Ok do it yourself pest control operators, here it is, the 3 steps you’ve been waiting for; simple, quick and instant results to get rid of and keep out those pesky earwigs. We’re so confident in this information that we guarantee it to work or your next post is FREE.

Springtime is here and pest populations will begin ‘popping’ soon and as Earwigs build up they begin to come inside. These 3 steps will help you reduce that down to zero.

# 1 Hang all ‘welcome mats’ up every night before you go to bed and whenever they are wet.

 

While it’s true Earwigs are most active at night so you’d assume they wouldn’t be there when you do this anyway; the important thing is they must find a new place to hide when they come home from a night of carousing. i.e; away from the front door. If picking them up every night is too much, see # 3

 

# 2 Elevate or remove all planters that are near obvious entry points such as sliding glass doors.

 

Earwigs love to hide under things like this especially if they provide moisture. If you can’t move or elevate them see # 3.
# 3 Treat your home with a generous layer of granules around the home and use liquid in cracks.

 

A nice two foot wide barrier of granules in the perimeter soil of your home and spray any cracks in the foundation and where cement slabs meet the walls. Thresholds of doors are also key as well as under any planters and mats you could not move or raise.
That should hold the little critters off and it wasn’t that hard was it. Did you notice that # 3 was pretty popular? I’m sure you did and it is because this is mostly where Earwigs will be. If you alter this to be undesirable for them, they will get the hint. For more detailed information look at the Legend of the earwig article and you’ll know more than you want to about earwigs.
 

 

 

 

Posted in Earwigs | 25 Comments

Bald Faced Hornets

This gal demands respect along with her 700 to 800 sisters if the colony reaches its peak. Actually the Bald Faced Hornet is just a larger Yellow Jacket not a Hornet. Don’t ask me, I’m not an entomologist but I did spend the night at a Holiday Inn.

This Hornet makes a beautiful paper nest usually round in shape. As the colony grows they actually remove some of the paper walls inside to make more room and add that paper to the outside shell. I’ve seen nests that are 4 feet long. They get the material for the nest from wood such as your privacy fence, picnic table etc. Their powerful jaws chew the wood and it mixes with their saliva to turn it into the paper they need. As the nest gets bigger they incorporate branches or objects (if it’s on the side of a building) which adds to its strength.

Bald faced Hornets are quite protective of the nest and if it is disturbed watch out! There is usually one or two guards at the entry and they will attack. If word gets out and more come you better run to the nearest house or cover that you can. These beauties can and will sting repeatedly and live to tell about it. Unlike the bee who dies after stinging you just once.

If at all possible you should leave the nest alone that is if it is up real high or out of the way. The nest is abandoned usually after the first

Looks real but it\’s actually a replica-pic on loan from Gin, a very talented lady

frost so you can safely have a nice trophy for your game room. Plus, these Hornets eat other insects so they are beneficial to your home and landscape. If however, it’s at all possible you may get attacked then it’s time for action.

There are many sites that show you how to ‘do it yourself’ but this is not one of them. I’ll tell you how the pros do it but if you ‘DIY’, then you’re on your own, literally.

The trick is, as with a lot of stinging pest work is to do it at night or on a rainy day (which is what I prefer). All the workers are usually present and you can make short work of it. The Bald Faced Hornet only has as a general rule one entry hole. Using minimal lights an exterminator gets right up to the entry and injects his product. Wasp freeze spray, dusts or other quick knock down aerosols will suffice. Then a piece of duct tape over the hole and slip a bag up over the nest. With snips he cuts the branch away and the nest gets neatly tied up and hauled away. You may be watching from a screen porch or a safe distance and watching this all happen in less than 5 minutes you curse the day you took my advice. A pro makes it look easy and you may feel gipped when he hands you the bill but believe me, it’s money well spent if you don’t have the tools or training.

Possible problems may include,

Tearing a new opening in nest with too much pressure from spray
Multiple branches intertwined with nest
Using too much light and getting stung
Losing your footing if you’re using a ladder and you get startled or stung
Tape doesn’t stick from too much spray
Unseen secondary exit hole
Not familiar with spray can and how it shoots resulting in weak or missed shot
Hesitating from nervousness or unable to aim because of fear (it happens all the time)

Like I said the pros make it look easy and for some it is; but that is why they are professionals right?
Any stinging pest work is dangerous and you should always consider calling a licensed pest control operator for the job. It’s not worth the pain of multiple stings or worse injury just to save a few bucks. If you’re nice they may just clean the nest up for you and let you keep it as your trophy. You can tell your friends anything you like; we bug men are good at keeping secrets.
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To see how the wasp nest was made click here, quite interesting.

Posted in Bees and wasps | 3 Comments

Orange oil for termites

Years ago citrus products were beginning to be ‘all the rage’ in the pest control industry. Manufacturing companies sent out mailers to all the certified operators and license holders of every bug company they could find. Company rep’s offered ceu’s (continued education unit) which are a highly sought after requirement mandated by state agencies and especially if they’re FREE.

Of course I went and got 1 hour of my required 8 but walked away knowing I was just in a batters cage swinging at a salesman’s pitch. The product was called “Web Away”. An all natural citrus based spray that guarantees the control of spiders like no other product on earth. What sold me on it was the added benefit of its ability to ‘dissolve’ the cobwebs away. Safe, non toxic and get rid of the webs, what’s not to like.

I, like almost everybody else in the room bought a gallon and happily drove away in my bug truck ready to try this new spray. It didn’t take very long to find out 2 things. #1 this new spray did smell very nice as advertised. #2 this concoction not only ate the webs,

but also my skin

The burn was so bad on my arms and any other exposed surface that I had to rinse my arms in cold water for 1/2 hour. To make matters worse I checked back after a week on my client ( who had a bad spider problem all along ) and the spiders were none the worse for the wear. I later tried the product with longer range applicators and wore full protective gear. The results were the same and I never used it again.

Now there seems to be a big push again for the use of ‘Orange oil’ against termites in California. It seems they are looking for chemical and pesticide free products in the name of ‘green pest control.’ Please note; I’m all for mother earth but sometimes being green just for the sake of it is worse than using standard proven methods.

Orange oil isn’t for all termites, just for Drywoods and has proven to kill those who contact it. It also absorbs in all directions improving the chances of the needed connection. The problem is that the residual is at most 21 days and that it emits VOCs (volitile organic compounds) which are bad to breathe and harmful to the environment. It also is quite a pollutant to marine life. Not to mention it can be highly flammible in areas over 120 degrees. Can you say attic? Tenting a home with gases is also a problem for the environment so I can see the rationale but these days there are so many choices of borates, heat, freezing, foams, liquids and more that to claim an all natural solution that is harmless when in fact it is not is irresponsible to say the least.

In pecking around for articles on this subject I came across this interesting character, Mike Allen the author of TOP SECRETS OF THE TERMITE INDUSTRY. He never comes out and tells you his secrets of course because he wants you to buy his book. He does however allude to Orange oil several times and one has to wonder how with all that experience why he does. Maybe he sells more than just his book. I’ve been in the industry over 25 years and can assure you we have no top 10 secrets we never want you to find out. Nothing in a locked vault as he says and I have never taken a blood oath of secrecy.

If you are facing a Drywood termite infestation and considering Orange oil perhaps you should look at alternatives before you make your decision. You could end up with more damage than before you started and that is I think, the opposite of what you want to achieve.

Posted in Termites | 1 Comment

April is official ‘kiss a bug man’ month

Well maybe not ‘kiss em’ but how about letting them know you’re thankful their here to help safeguard your health and home by keeping all those creepy crawlers at bay.

April is designated by the National Pest Management Association as National Pest Management month. It’s been recognized by United States presidents for 30 years and gives the pest industry a chance to spot light the good they do for all the worlds citizens.

Pest control is among the top reasons that we here in America live a fruitful and prosperous life. Our foods are safer, our homes are protected and we enjoy more health benefits now than at any other time in history; this is largely due to pest control and the efforts of its professionals.

So if you see your friendly bug man on the street or they’re scheduled to treat your home this month why not show them that you appreciate them. Tips are nice or a gift card to a local restaurant is fine, but how about a genuine ‘thank you’ and a pat on the back. Everybody likes to hear they are needed and this is a perfect time to let them know.

Posted in Pests in the news | Leave a comment

Trapping animals alive in my yard ‘A disaster’

Well what I thought would be a nice series of posts didn’t turn out so well. Two straight days of rain, an unbelievable work schedule and a neighbor with a shotgun.

Yea that about sums it up

Our poor critter, which turned out to be an Armadillo wasn’t happy enough with my yard; apparently he had been tearing things up where he shouldn’t have and it cost him. That is one way of getting rid of unwanted wildlife but not exactly what I wanted to show you.

Since I started this series I’ll finish it, just not with my personal steps, pics and all. My apologies to anyone who was hoping for a more animal friendly post.

As stated on day one, the key is to identify the critter. Most people don’t and that can lead to trapping frustration. Armadillo tracks are not always visible because they drag their tails and may obscure the prints. Usually you can get one or two however or you can see their tell tale evidence of rooting up dozens of small holes in your yard as they are looking for food just below your sod. The den is also a giveaway because of its size and location. Armadillos almost always burrow into or under something. Slabs, landscaping, (as in my case) under homes etc. They are powerful diggers and the holes can be quite deep and they have a lot of dirt ‘thrown’ at the entry. Other critters burrow as well but tend to hide their burrows a bit better. Skunks, rabbits and Fox dens can be very hard to find so you may not be able to trap them at the entry.

With the Armadillos diet of grubs, insects and some vertebrae’s you might find it hard to try and bait them into your trap. A nice slice of apple can work but most likely just positioning the trap at the mouth of the hole set up in a gauntlet style will lead them right in. Live traps such as ‘Hav a hearts’ are perfect for this. They come in 2 or 3 sizes and just make sure you don’t get one to small. To lead the little guy into your trap simply place some bricks or boards along the sides of the burrow so that he has to go straight into the trap. (Gauntlet) You can usually do this safely in the day as our little critter comes out at night to feed.

The Armadillo is not the brightest bulb in the box but sometimes it may take days of repositioning the trap until you finally get him. I guess that means we’re not the brightest either. It’s rare that you spook him to much that he leaves the den altogether for another location so keep trying. When you’ve got him it’s a simple ‘drive out to the country’ and lift the trap door and he’ll scoot out. They have teeth but are pretty harmless.

If trapping is not for you and you want the damage to your yard to STOP then the quickest solution is ‘castor oil.’ This really does a number on their digestive track and they won’t stay around very long once applied. Castor oil is available at almost any do it yourself pest control store under the name ‘Whole Control”. One quart can treat about 4000 square feet and you simply attach your hose to the jug and turn on the water. Whole control will deter any digging, rooting animal for about 3 months without any permanent harm to him or your grass.

If you’ve determined that you have say a raccoon or an opossum it may be a bit trickier to trap them but you can do it. Simply place the trap near where they are causing the ruckus and bait with apples, sardines or any kind of fruit. Once trapped, the scary part can be picking up the cage to load them up and take them away. Thick leather gloves are a must, don’t try and lift the cage with a stick or pole as that may be unstable and you may drop the cage. It could open or become damaged so that it is difficult to lift the door and either scenario could be trouble. Placing a dark cover over the trap will calm the animal down but leave a hole so you can easily grab the handle. When releasing the animal do it smoothly and quickly, back away and get into your car until he’s gone.

As with any pest control, if you feel you can’t do it or unsafe trying; call a pro. It may be a cost more than you think its worth but your safety is priceless I’m sure. These people are very good at what they do and it still may take them several visits to catch your critter.

I’d say call my neighbor, but I’m kind of mad at him right now.

Posted in Trapping live animals series | 1 Comment

Trapping animals alive ‘in my yard’ day #1

I rarely get the opportunity to do ‘live trapping’ in my business. Usually by the time I explain the ins and outs of the process and then tell my prospective client the cost, I get the “thanks for coming” handshake and I’m off. I figure I’m just too descriptive with ‘how to do it’ that they in turn become a ‘do it yourself pest control’ operation.

I got to work on my sales pitch.

Well I’ve recently discovered a burrow in my yard and thought I’d take this chance to show you how it’s done. I don’t know exactly what it is yet (but I have my suspicions) and I’m not sure if it will take one day or 10. If I fail, which does happen to a lot of people, I promise not to get out the shotgun out of frustration. At that point we’ll continue with other options and there are a few of them.

I have some manmade hills on my property with 1000’s of ferns planted on them, this provides a beautiful natural privacy fence to the back yard and now unfortunately it also has allowed a critter to move in. I’ve recently had to put wire around the ferns because my new puppies were ruining the ferns in very short-order. I didn’t notice any holes then so I figure this new resident has only been there a month or so. The only way I was alerted to the hole was my pups that are very well mannered would not leave this area alone constantly barking and sniffing.

You may have similar landscaping or perhaps your home is elevated and the critter has dug to gain access to his new, roomy ground level condo. Either way we’ll go through step by step and hopefully help you out.

Determine what it is you are trying to trap. This process is often left out of trapping but it is vital to ensure quickest results. Knowing what you have will determine what type of bait you use. An Armadillo for example may not be the least bit interested in your sardine snack you baited your trap with thinking you had a raccoon. You can also determine the size of the trap you need based on this and that could be all the difference in the world to catching your critter. Big animals can’t fit in small traps.

To verify what you have you have a couple of options; if you visually see it of course that’s all you’ll need. Most animals of this sort however come out at night to the wee hours of the morning; if you’re not up then you may never know. To determine your critter, simply put talcum or baby powder at the entry. The next day you should be able to see some tracks that will clue you in to what you have. If you don’t see tracks in the first day or two, check for a secondary hole that they may be using.

From there it’s a simple process of matching the tracks up to identify the problem. This can be done on line or a book from your library.

Before I get too far I’ll stop here and we’ll pick this up tomorrow with ‘my track’ results. So make sure to drop back in and feel free to comment any and all suggestions you might have regarding the live trapping of animals. Or if you have any stories, humorous or exasperating please share them. I’ll be happy to post them in this series.

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Siverfish & Firebrats

Two of the oldest known insects to inhabit the earth, fossil records date back 300 million years. Silverfish get their name obviously because they are silver but if you observe the way they move it’s much the movement of a fish. I’m not entirely sure how Firebrats got their names but some say it’s because they like higher temperatures and are associated with fireplaces and bakeries. Firebrats are not silver in color, they are more mottled brown. Other names both are known as are, Bristletails, Three Tails and Fish Moths.

Both enjoy a wide variety of foods, paper, book bindings, wallpaper, cereals, starched fabrics, leather, fur, silk and rayon to name a few. Their mouthparts can bite small pieces and are also adapted for scraping. Each insect grows via ‘gradual metamorphosis’ which means the nymphs look pretty much like the adults. One very interesting fact is that these little guy’s can go a whole year without food if need be.
Silverfish and Firebrats are often associated with new houses, possibly because they are brought in on the materials and boxes and quickly scatter about looking for food. Silverfish are most noted in kitchens and a bathroom while Firebrats tend to go where it is hotter in your home. This said you can really find them just about anywhere as there is no obstacle they can’t climb or walk on. They prefer dark areas or places out of sight. You can find both outdoors as well but it’s usually the Firebrat who can thrive much better outside.

To control these insects in your home takes a couple of things; # 1 you should understand that they are not gregarious and it’s highly unlikely you have any major infestation on your hands. # 2 to perform a pest control job on Silverfish and Firebrats you need to apply the products where they are likely to go. In other words, a baseboard spray will do you very little good.

Spraying

If you want to spray for them I suggest you use a fan spray pattern on your nozzle. A quick whisk of spray behind book cases, up high in corners or above kitchen cabinets will be a good start. Avoid treating the middle of a wall, just because you saw them there an hour ago doesn’t mean you should make a mess of your wall now. Also take care where you select to spray, remember that spray mist has got to fall somewhere and unintentionally getting spray on toddler’s toys on the floor is not good. Remember ‘a quick whisk’ in areas likely that they will hide or feed should do nicely.

Dusting

I prefer dusting for chemical control of these insects. Its coverage area behind say a computer desk is better and there’s less chance of having a ‘zap’ sound that you may get when your liquid spray hits your electric wires.Yikes! You can’t dust an open corner near the ceiling however so that is one drawback. Dusting should only be done to voids or spot treatments to inaccessible areas. See How to kill bugs using dusts for more help.

Baiting

This can be an excellent way to rid you of Silverfish and Firebrats. However, since they can go long periods without food they can get a bit picky and pass your bait up. Silverfish packs are very good for this and can be placed just about anywhere. I’ve also had success with Niban FG (fine granules) in places like garages or on top of the cabinets and around air handlers and heat units.

Sticky traps

Trapping for these guys would seem logical since they eat glues and that’s what a sticky trap is but in reality I just don’t get the results with them. It’s much like trapping a spider however so place the traps in places they’ll run to or across.

Just keep in mind that an occasional Silverfish or Firebrat is no big deal and the one you saw 3 days ago is very likely the one you saw this morning. Keep the sprays to the areas he’ll most likely go and you’ll have your best results in a short period of time.

Posted in Silverfish and Firebrats | 2 Comments

Spring is for starting over ‘chemical disposal’

The cool nip in the air is almost gone as bees and ants begin to awake from a long winters nap. Soon homeowners everywhere will be heading out to their sheds and garage shelves with discerning eyes, wondering which pest control chemical they’ll use this year.

The Diazonon did real good last year on the Box elders but it must have had a leak or something, it all oozed out onto the shelf and some on the floor. There’s still some left at the bottom, you can use that in a pinch. Let’s see, oh here is some Triazicide that still looks good; you bought it 3 years ago for the aphids on the back hedge. No more aphids for sure, to bad those bushes died though, they were looking real good.

As you pick and choose this year’s arsenal for the big spring time spray you run across the grand daddy of them all. You blow the dust off the thick glass bottle(cough a little) and then rub the thick dust away to reveal a deep brown liquid just sitting there waiting to be used. The label says made in 1984 Chlordane; that stuff was the best chemical known to man; you just spray a little of this and you wouldn’t have bugs for years. You wonder why they ever took it off the market and you contemplate using it for this spring. Naw, the bugs aren’t that bad and you want to wait until you really need it so you put it back on the shelf by the window.

Ok you’re ready to mix up your wares and lay down a lethal dose of ‘don’t come round my house’ when you see that almost all your chemical choices are curdled, lumpy, smell funny and won’t mix real well. That’s Ok you were getting kind of low on your stock anyway so you wipe your hands on your pants and begin throwing out the old pesticides. You do have quite a collection.

The bottles are heavy and you have some Sevin dust floating in the air while the trash bag is about ready to bust; you barely get the bulging bag into the can just before it tears open at the bottom. Good thing tomorrow is trash day; you got to remind Timmy to take it down to the corner tonight.

So now it’s off to the big box store to reload for the coming year’s pest control and the cycle begins again.

Does this sound like you? Hopefully not but it does represent a vast majority of people not only in this country but around the world. While I could go off in a number of ways I really only want to emphasize one aspect of this scenario.

Used pesticides and lawn products don’t go to the same place when they are discarded as does our regular household garbage. There are special techniques and methods for disposing of chemicals that minimize the risks to our environment. Some products placed under ground in landfills may last for decade’s harmlessly sitting there in their sealed container. It only takes a small shift or some corrosion to finally set it free and that’s when it can seep into our ground water and literally contaminate miles and miles of an underground aquifer. If exposed to a fire sometime in the future, firefighters or civilians could be exposed to a toxic burning fume and without knowledge of what it is there may be little you can do to treat the victims.

Now, I’m not your classic tree hugger but I do care for the environment and the health of my family and those of my customers. It really does not take super heroic efforts, just a little bit of care in transportation and a few minutes out of your day. It’s really very simple to dispose of your old unused pest and lawn products. Almost all the landfills I’ve read about or have gone to have a toxic waste area and guess what! There is no guard standing there to take down your license number and report what you placed there. I have never even seen a fee collected. It’s usually a small non descript area and you place your refuse onto some pallets. Later, technicians trained in toxic disposal will come by and do their job. I’m sure you are interested in good health for you and your loved ones too, so let’s take the time and do what’s best.

Here’s a bit of help for you if you don’t know where to go to get rid of these chemicals you no longer need. Be my hero and do the right thing.

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Plug in pest control

Build a better mousetrap and the world will beat a path to your door.

Ralph Waldo Emerson

I have been asked so many times over the years about ‘plug in pest control devices’. Do they really work? Usually the question comes from a new customer who is standing in her kitchen with roaches scurrying about while her 8 pest control plug ins hum quietly along.

Obviously not is what the smug dark side of me wants to say; but almost always the polite little bug guy comes out in me and explains to her that they are ineffective and actually cost her more by taking up valuable electricity. Invariably the devices are still in place with the next service and there they’ll stay for the duration. I’m sure she just can’t give up hope that somehow this scientifically proven method can’t be wrong.

Actually tests have proven the devices are bogus and I was right. Hopefully for the rest of this post, my ‘good little bug guy’ side will stay intact but I so want to pat myself on the back and do the ” I told you so” dance.

There are literally hundreds of new inventions and devices for pest control put out every year. Some sound good and make it to the trucks of the pest control companies or shelves of the do it yourself stores around America. Many others never get past the first hurdle. No matter where they end up a good percentage still just do not work.

Here’s some off the top of my head and a brief description of problems they have.

Plug ins–most insects can’t hear ultra sonic sound waves nor does the pulse they create disturb them. It does make a nice warm home for the roaches though.

In ground pop up termite detector–orange pop up button goes up regardless if its ants, moisture or a weed whacker that damages the trigger.

Plastic ‘trap ease’ live mouse trap–plastic doesn’t seem strong enough and the mouse chews his way out.

Plastic round live mouse trap–to small and the mouse’s tail is usually caught in door, mouse turns around and works the door back open.

Foggers— unable to reach all the pests unless you use to many= bad things happen

Clear fly tape–made to be put on windows and usually only catches the draw strings of the blinds.

Aerosol dusts–use to work quite well but due to environmental concerns the formula has changed, now all it does is clog the tips or the always popular “won’t stop spraying” making a huge mess in someone’s kitchen.

Well that’s just a few but back to the plug ins. On my site you’ll notice a Books and more store. I set that up mainly for the books but also put some products. There must have been 3 pages of this plug in device to choose from. I could not in all good conscience allow any of them in because I know they are a waste of money as far as I’m concerned. (If I missed any or the gods at Amazon sneak one in, let me know)

As a professional I want you to be bug free and if these little beauties would do it I’d have my trucks stocked to the brim with them. Believe me, my chemical bill would go way down and I could probably let a few of my technicians go home early for a change.

Victor Sonic Mini PestChaser Ultrasonic Rodent Repellent - Keep Rodents Out

Now if you’ve purchased or are considering some of these I don’t want to make you feel bad, I just don’t want you to be misled. There are so many tried and true methods in the pest control industry that will be much better for you and your wallet. Not the least of all is your ‘happy little bug guy’ who has all the tools, knowledge and experience to give you the desired result of a bug free home.

Posted in Tools of the trade | 24 Comments