Where wettable powders work best

Posted on July 5, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

There are many forms of pesticides that are available for do it yourself homeowners. Of course the same is true for professionals but the main difference is your local pro knows when to use certain types for optimum results.

A quick trip down any pest control isle at your local big box store and you’ll find you have very little choice. Almost all the insecticides are liquids and most of those are ‘ready to use’ so no mixing is required. The concentrates that you can mix are called ‘ec’s’ or emulsifiable concentrates. There is really nothing wrong with these products but there are a few surfaces that they do not perform well on and unfortunately you will probably be treating on some of those.

Ec’s mixed with water tend to soak in to some surfaces and so your pesticide that you want to contact bugs goes harmlessly below the surface and kills nothing. Also on very slick vertical surfaces such as tiled walls or stainless steel, ec’s will run to the bottom and pool. Very little if any pesticide is left up where you sprayed. In these circumstances it would be great to have something that would stay on top of the contact area and be ready for an unsuspecting bug to walk across it.

These areas are a couple of examples where wp’s (wettable powders) can give you superior coverage. While wp’s are also mixed with water the powder formulation allows it to stick better to slick surfaces and not allow it to soak completely into porous surfaces. The small flakes of powder will be left for the most part right where you sprayed it when the water dries or flows away.

Areas around a typical home where wp’s work better include;

Un-painted bricks
Under side of porcelain
Pressed board
Metal siding
Vinyl siding
Mulch
Metal soffits
Tiled walls
Gutters and down spouts
Concrete

As you can see there are quite a few spots where you could benefit with a wp. This is not to say you should trash your ec’s and I’m sure you don’t relish the idea of having to switch between 2 sprayers back and forth as you come across the different surfaces. But if you are having trouble with ants for example trailing across your brick veneer and your spray job just isn’t working then perhaps now you’ll have a better idea why.

Posted in Tools of the trade | Leave a comment

Getting rid of Box elder bugs

Posted on July 4, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

Early in my career one bug stood out as the most hardy insect and most difficult to exterminate, the boxelder bug. In the dead of winter I would check exterior rodent stations around commercial structures and very often I would find large collections of boxelders hiding behind and under the stations. With 3 feet of snow on the ground and frigid temperatures these bugs were doing their best to ‘over winter’ using the rat stations as protection. Even with the cold they were still moving and on some bright and warmer days they would actually venture out and sun themselves for a couple of hours. Insect sprays at the time were ineffective and we would power spray around homes but not kill very many bugs. We knew that soap and water worked well so we would fill our large professional spray tanks with the sudsy mix and our manager had us use the chemical name for soap on the service receipts. R-COO-Na + H2O or potash was what we were instructed to write and I never felt good about that. I guess this mega company didn’t want to be seen as using a home remedy or perhaps wanted to justify the cost with a big fancy scientific word.

Boxelders are most prevalent in the early spring and fall but can be a nuisance throughout the summer season as well. At times the numbers grow so large that they can be in every square foot of a lawn or garden and found soaking up the sun by the thousands on the side of a home. Generally speaking it is always the south and west sides as these get the warmest rays.

Boxelders are a small bug about 1/2 inch long and adults can be distinguished by the 3 red lines on their abdomen. Nymphs are most often completely red and fill in with black as they grow. The young bugs lack wings but the adults have overlapping wings outlined in red to form an ‘x’ when folded. Eggs are laid on plant leaves and are completely red. These bugs feed on many plants but especially love the seed pod of the female boxelder tree. Although they do little damage and only wander inside occasionally the sheer number of them prompt many people to try their hand at spraying this bug but they usually have poor results.

What to spray

Until recently most pesticides were pretty ineffective and the mainstay of boxelder control was soap and water. The problem with this approach is that you need to get it directly on the bug for it to work. If you are in your garden or working around the home you can fill a sprits bottle with 30% soap and 70% water and spray them as you see them. For larger problems that need more volume you can use the soaping feature on your pressure washer. The same ratio in a 5 gallon bucket will go along way and you can spray to your hearts delight.

Insecticides such as Bifen or Cyfluthrin (Tempo wettable powder) can work well but don’t be surprised if they do not die right away. Remember I told you they were hardy. If the bugs are getting inside the Tempo is an excellent choice but also look to seal up where they are getting in. Smashing a boxelder can sometimes leave a red stain so try and avoid that. For best results you should use a backpack sprayer or power spray rig to get maximum coverage. Since most folks don’t have this kind of equipment stored behind the garage, you might consider a pest control company for the job at this time. (Just watch your service ticket)

Other than chemical control you can always take down the female boxelder tree if it is on your property. This is the most permanent solution and chances are you won’t get them back next spring unless there is another tree nearby.

In the world of bugs few are as hard to kill as the boxelder, it’s like a fighter in the 10th round that won’t go down even though he’s being hit directly. Today’s formulations and pest control products have eliminated most of this but nothing I know of gives you a good immediate ‘knock down.’ Just remember that in pest control the most important ingredient is common sense so let your treatment work and don’t over do it. Now, go get em champ!

Posted in Boxelder bugs | 1 Comment

Quick pest control with spray glue

Posted on July 3, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

I can see it now, someone who is a speed reader saw the title of this article and ran to the garage and got their can of spray glue and immediately started hosing down the kitchen to address a german roach problem they’re having. Not quite the tip I wanted to give you.

Sometimes there are situations that need a quick fix but pesticides won’t do. I put together a list of certain times a little shot of spray glue will help. Spray glue will work on almost any surface, is easy to clean up (soapy water) and is fast to apply. Most spray glues stay sticky and that is important, don’t use one that ‘dries fast’, if it dries completely it won’t work.

Apply spray glue to;

  • wire used to hang bird feeders to keep ants away(great for Humming bird liquid feeders)
  • yellow paper cut to size of playing card, put on popsicle stick and put in or near potted plants, or anywhere gnats are a problem.
  • base of exterior pets dishes for ants and crawling pests
  • legs of bird, rabbit or other cages for ants and crawling pests
  • cable lines that enter home (not electric wires)
  • tie downs of tents or awnings
  • base of Rv tires or vehicles that sit for long periods of time
  • outdoor grill legs
  • mail box posts
  • well pvc pipes ants are famous for blocking the contacts (not exposed lines)
  • gutter down spouts (insecticides won’t stick to metal)
  • small paper wasp nests (be careful glue has no knockdown but it will work quickly)
  • outdoor patio furniture legs
  • fence lines touching home where ants are trailing
  • foundation cracks where bugs crawl in

This is just a partial list of course and please don’t abandon smart pest control product use just because the glue can is handy. These are only temporary fixes but really so is applying pesticides because it will eventually breakdown and need to be reapplied as well. Some glues will only last for a day or so and there are glue sticks or roll on that may provide similar results.

If you have other areas you can think of or have used this glue trick yourself please share some with us. We can all benefit from hearing of your experience. Well, thanks for sticking around to read this and remember common sense is your best ingredient when doing pest control.

Posted in Tools of the trade | Leave a comment

Spraying around fish tanks and exotic pets

Posted on July 2, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

There are times when you need to treat for pest control around some out of the ordinary pets. Snakes, birds, lizards, ferrets and fish tanks all need a little special care before you spray but it can be done in a safe manner while still being effective.

With cats and dogs the usual precaution is to remove them from the home or area being treated but with a 8 foot Boa constrictor you may have trouble keeping him in the back yard even on a leash. Exotic pets are most often confined to cages or tanks that are not always easy to move. Their environment may only be a few square feet and great care should be taken to keep the balance. Wayward pesticides can disrupt this and with the limited space it’s highly likely for the pet to come in prolonged contact with the spray and that’s when bad things can happen.

What not to do

To treat areas with exotic pets let’s rule out one thing you should never do unless you first remove the pets and that is fog. I’m not a huge fan of fogging for the most part but it does have its place. Since it fills the air with almost microscopic particles and is at the mercy of the air currents in the room, it indiscriminately goes anywhere and everywhere which means it could seep into your pets cage or tank. Aerosols such as Raid in these areas should only be used in voids of walls which means they have to have treatment straws so it can be injected. If your spray can does not have the straw it is essentially a fogger so refer to the warning above. If we must spray in these areas let’s at least do it with something can control.

Simple preparation

Before treating take a few minutes to prepare your pets home. A damp towel over your pets cage or fish tank will help ensure that insecticides stay out. The damp towel will grab any airborne spray but a dripping wet one might actually grab the bug spray which then can be dripped in with the water so don’t use a soaking wet towel. Unplug any fish filters as they pump outside air into the water the fish live in and turn heat lamps or lights off as well because of possible electric hazards. (don’t forget to turn them back on after your treatment) An open window is good for fresh air and fans on low and pointed away from cages or tanks can help as well.

Things you can use

Liquid sprays can be used efficiently and we can direct the insecticide to only cracks and crevices but be careful not to pump up your sprayer too much. Low pressure will keep the misting to a minimum.

Baits are an excellent choice but outside the cage only. Gels, tablets, bait stations and even liquid baits can target specific insects and even draw them out and away from the living space of your pets and lessen any chance of contamination.

Sticky traps with pheromones or attractants can give you some of the same results as baits but I wouldn’t rely on them solely.

If you do spray go lightly at first and monitor your pets reactions. Never treat inside the tank or cage even with baits or sticky traps. Use common sense and don’t be afraid to seek a professionals help if you are ever unsure of the insect you are after or how to treat. Your local bug man has been doing this for years and is most capable to rid you of your bug problem while keeping your exotic pets safe.

Posted in Spraying around series | 1 Comment

100% of the people can get rid of 95% of the German roaches

Posted on July 1, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

“It is the mark of a true professional who can get rid of the last 5%”

 

I did not coin this phrase or idea but I agree with it whole heartedly. Actually I believe it was Dr. Austin Frishman, a pioneer and respected leader in the pest control industry who said this or something pretty close. With any severe German roach infestation this truth is confirmed time and again regardless if the treatment is done by a professional or home owner but for our example will explore the typical experience of the DIY pest controller.

Armed with a gallon sprayer and perhaps an aerosol can it’s actually easy to get hundreds of roaches scurrying up and out of their hiding spots and trying to escape your liquid death assault. German roaches hide in some pretty obvious spots when populations get out of control and even break some ‘nocturnal’ rules for scavenging because of the competition for food. Even a sloppy spray job will hit a lot of them and within minutes just about anyone can have the roaches doing the ‘twitchy dance of death’ and falling from the ceiling. Results seem great and you’re amazed at how many are coming out, this pest control thing is a breeze.

Fast forward 10 days or so and let’s see what we have. 10 days is a good barometer because during that time our rookie will still be seeing dying roaches and so he may not be done yet patting himself on the back. Also many products will take longer once dried to enter into the roaches system and instead of the twitchy dance the roach might just do the half back flip and shake his legs for a few hours. Now maybe the roaches aren’t so obvious on the cabinet doors and you may not see them as much when you reach for a plate or open a drawer. You realize however that they are still there because you catch a few of them in the dish strainer late at night when you come down for a glass of milk. Also you notice some fecal matter build up in the microwave clock window and the number of dead ones although dwindling, is still steady. You determine that this weekend you’ll load up the sprayer and hit them again.

The weekend comes and we’re at day 15 or so and you once again blast the kitchen but not nearly as many scurry and for all the work the results are less than satisfying. You give it a few days and the evidence of fresh and alive roaches is frustrating. The microwave window is getting dimmer and you can actually see some live ones in the digital display like looking into a fish tank. You also notice roaches in places that you might not have seen before and it’s like deja vu all over again because you’re no better off than at the end of your first 10 day period.

This is a crossroads point for many people and the road goes 2 ways. You can continue trying with what got you to this point or as most do, try a new chemical. Many people erroneously believe that roaches become immune to chemicals quickly and that is the reason their spray work is failing. Others blame it on the product itself and as far as they are concerned it is branded a bad chemical from then on. So off to the store where you load up on new roach sprays, baits, gels, it doesn’t matter, just as long as it has a different sounding name.

Day 20 and you’ve arranged for the house to be empty and you are now armed with new chemicals, advice from the guy who came over from the plumbing dept. and all your vast knowledge picked up from the world wide web. With new resolve you bait, spray, fumble with a bottle duster and place sticky traps on every level surface. You get some satisfaction because you’ve found a new nest of 50 or 60 behind a seldom moved box and indeed the effect seems to get them going like when you first sprayed. The results are still not stellar considering the money you spent and it’s now time to spend the next hour or two putting everything back in place so this is getting more and more tiresome.

The young man from plumbing told you to wait 10 days and do it again but you’re not about to pull all the food and dishes out again and besides, your sticky traps have only caught 30 or 40 so you tell yourself it is getting better. So following the advice from a man in a smock you re-spray and it seems hopeless because hardly anything is chased out. The ones you do see are alive and well and don’t seem any worse for all you’ve done. Before day 30 comes to a close you head to the kitchen for your nightly glass of milk. There on the counter near the still wet wash cloth you see what seems an impossibility. 20 maybe 30 baby roaches just as happy as can be getting their nightly drink as well. On the refrigerator door another roach seeks shelter in a door hinge and you recognize her as a mama roach because of the huge egg capsule attached to her hind end. Ootheca means egg capsule and it seemed liked a nice word to learn from that web site but it hardly matters now. Two more scurry under the stove and you look to check the time but the microwave clock reads like a hieroglyphic.

With time the roaches still get worse and perhaps you invest in some foggers but at some point you decide you’ve sunk enough money into this losing effort. No matter how thorough and what you try you still can’t get over that hump. The light at the end of the tunnel is something you can see but can never get to. You’ve called 2 or 3 pest control companies and were shocked at the price and hold off hoping against hope that your last 1/4 gallon of spray will get them. In this endeavor the homeowner will almost always relent and allow a professional in to get rid of the roaches once and for all. In a perfect world all bug men would be able to do this but sadly there are even some with a license that do not have what it takes to exterminate the last 5% but I believe it is just a few.

Either way don’t feel to bad as you tried your best and got to the same point as millions of others have before you. German roaches are successful for many reasons and just one escapee can re-infest your home in a short amount of time. You are not alone in the failings of German roach control but just another person in a very long line with many more to come after you. Some have gone to greater lengths than you have and spent 10 times the amount of money but that last 5% still eluded them too. The line has been growing for about 350,000,000 years and I suspect there is always room for one more.

Posted in Roaches | 5 Comments

Fleas in vacant homes

Posted on June 30, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

Some of the worst flea cases you’ll ever have to deal with are those found in empty homes. You can do all the right things, treat as thoroughly as a professional and still have fleas weeks or months later.

The most common scenarios for the empty house flea syndrome is when people go on vacation. You lock up the home take Teddy to the kennel and it’s off to Disney for a well deserved respite. When you left you had no idea that you had fleas and it’s the last thing on your mind. Arriving home you put down your luggage and begin to unpack when you begin to notice a few fleas hopping on your pant legs. Brushing them off you make a quick call to the kennel to have Teddy flea dipped before you pick him up tomorrow. The fleas continue and may even get worse until you decide it’s time for action. You may call a company or do it yourself but you are none the less surprised to find your home has fleas. When Teddy comes home the fleas settle down quickly and you’re convinced your spray has solved the problem.

If you called a professional and the dog was treated with more than just a flea bath you may have solved the situation. What happens more over is that the fleas who were inactive while you were gone got busy looking for a blood meal the minute you stepped back in the house and finally when Teddy came home their lives could return to normal. Teddy scratches a bit but as long as they don’t jump on you everything is fine.

The other scenario is a home that is left vacant on a more long term basis. Vacation homes or rental properties can be empty for quite some time so it is very surprising to have fleas jump on you like this when you haven’t been in the home for months on end. I do a lot of bank repo homes and they can be the worst infestations to treat as people come in infrequently looking for a good buy or to do some service. The fleas will hop on them in a almost desperate way and the people will run out as fast as they came in.

The Problem

Adult fleas only eat one thing and that is warm blood and if they do not have a host they can go into a dormant like state which can last up to two years. Eggs under normal conditions hatch in one to twelve days and the larva eats debris from animal hairs or vegetable matter. In about two weeks the larva pupates and that stage lasts for seven days. The adult will emerge and immediately seek a blood meal. When no one is present however the adults in their pupal stage will just stay and wait until a host is present. This emergence is triggered by vibrations and some research also suggests c02. If no one is home walking about and Teddy is not sniffing around (exhaling c02) there they sit. This is why an empty house can be so infested and nobody is the wiser. Of course the flea is mighty hungry after this so it stands to reason that people report getting swarmed on at times entering an empty home.

Treating empty homes

In scenario one the job is not so difficult because the constant activity has the fleas hopping around and coming into contact with your residual insecticides. Teddy is treated as well so the fleas are doomed wherever they go. It still may require some time to have things run there course but relief comes quickly for the home in this case.

Scenario two can be a on going nightmare and many do it yourself pest controllers will spend a lot of money on foggers and sprays only to get jumped on each time they come back. Without activity the adult fleas will settle in and not be so apt to contact the products laid out for them and the pupal stage won’t complete itself until you walk back through that door. I tell my clients to picture their flea treatment like a mine field and the fleas are in it. You can have a thousand mines in the carpet but if the flea does not move he won’t make contact. Unlike a mine the flea won’t die from first contact. The pesticide needs to get on the flea, work it’s way in and then eventually kill it. This is why there are very few over night success stories in flea control under even perfect circumstances.

Ways to get the fleas moving

To get your fleas on the move and speed up the extermination process you can really only do a couple of things. You could go to the house once or twice a week and create activity by vacuuming or just walk around. Of course this means getting jumped on so put a rubber band around your pant legs or wear some rubber boots. The other way is to put in several flea traps and let them attract the fleas. Remember ‘green’ lights seem to work the best and I would put one in every room or area and shut the doors so that’s all the flea has to look at. In my repo homes there usually isn’t electricity and batteries won’t last very long. In this situation I am often called to retreat but rather than respray we’ll stop by and just walk around the home or instruct the management company to have the carpets cleaned first and then retreat.

In any event ‘activity’ is the key and without it you’ll have a long two years to wait for a flea free home. Follow the blue links above for detailed information and if it seems to much give a call to your local professional. They’ll be happy to help.

Posted in Fleas | 1 Comment

Dangers in the attic

Posted on June 29, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

There is a hidden danger in almost every single attic in the world, this insidious enemy cannot be controlled with sprays, powders, baits or any of the most sophisticated pest control equipment ever designed.

This infestation can affect the do it yourself homeowner and the professional pest control professional alike. Most often it strikes when one has no idea it’s there, they may feel completely in control and when everything seems safe it strikes. Men and women are often seriously hurt while some skate by with just a scratch and a scare. The danger in the attic is not an insect or vicious animal lurking in the shadows but can be just as surprising.

Every year 1000’s of people performing pest control in attics fall through the ceilings because they are unfamiliar with how to safely traverse on it’s rafters. Most times they think that the drywall is a solid surface and walk as if they were on a tiled kitchen floor. Some fall all the way to the surface below while others might just stick a foot through the drywall before they catch themselves. Most attics aren’t made to walk in and insulation, duct work and low clearances just increase the difficulty. If this isn’t bad enough add to it the fact that an attic can reach temperatures of 120 degrees on a hot summer day. I have to go into attics all the time and believe me I don’t look forward to it.

Tips on moving through an attic safely

 

  • Don’t be in a hurry, rushing through an attic will almost always end badly
  • Try to only go into the attic in the cool of the morning or a few hours after sundown
  • Have plenty of light, headlamps are best or a bright handheld
  • Keep at least one hand secured to a rafter with every move
  • Never guess that you’re placing your feet in a stable place, know it
  • Carry any equipment on a belt or backpack or move it ahead each time you stop

 

This list should help you but I’ll explain how I do it and perhaps this will give you a better mind picture of each safety tip listed.

In my line of work I can’t always pick and choose when I have to crawl into an attic so there are times when it is extremely hot. If for some reason my work will carry me to the far end and away from the entry I have been known to reschedule services due to the risk. I’m told that in the high temperatures of an attic or any extreme heat situation you have about 8 minutes before your body begins to over heat and bad things begin to happen. I usually carry a flashlight and wear a clip on head lamp, this way if I need two hands I slip the handheld in my back pocket and can still see. If it is a mouse or rat job I’m doing I’ll put my traps and bait in a plastic bag and tie it to my belt. Anything heavier or more bulky I just inch it ahead each time I stop then securely move forward and reach behind and move it again. Secure footing is almost always hidden beneath insulation but the 2×4’s you need to stand on are lined up with the rafters by you’re head so you should use that for reference. Place your foot on the 2×4 and tap a little to ‘feel’ the board with your foot, only put full pressure when you know you are on it. I never take a step without one hand on a rafter, this means I keep one hand free at all times with no equipment or flashlight to hold. When you’ve stopped to do your work maintain one hand on a rafter as much as possible. I will squat down and lean on a truss for balance and support. When your task is done simply follow the same procedure to get back to the entry.

If you ever have the need to treat an attic for any pest control treatment make sure you are careful. Perhaps for most it would be better to hire a professional who has the equipment and can make short work of it. But if you must venture in to the dark abyss remember it’s kind of like driving a car; to do it safely you must follow the rules of the road.

Posted in Safety | Leave a comment

Lightning Bugs

Posted on June 28, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

As a kid growing up in Iowa every summer we would be treated to a nightly light show that would fascinate any child and adults too. Lightning bugs or Fireflies would fill the yard and corn fields with their Morse code flashes. We kept jars on the back porch and when darkness fell we would end our long summer days with a lightning bug round up. We also would smear them all over our hands thinking they would glow too but that never worked. The harmless bug was only trying to attract a mate but we would spend countless hours in amazement and wonder as to how such an amazing creature came to be.

I never understood the firefly and why it glowed and scientist today aren’t exactly sure how they turn on and off their beacons but they do have the chemical combination figured out as to what makes them glow.

The enzyme luciferase acts on luciferin, in the presence of magnesium ions, ATP (adenosene triphosphate), and oxygen to produce light.

www.wikipedia.com

 

Don’t worry, I still have no idea either but what is remarkable is that this light is known as ‘cold light’ and is very efficient. A light bulb in your home can only use 10% of the energy that goes through it to produce light, the rest is turned into heat. A lightning bugs energy is used at 90% to create light.

Even the larva glow and are sometimes referred to as ‘glow worms.’ They usually live in the soil or under bark and will hunt down snails and worms for food. Adults are thought to be nectar feeders for the most part but their mouth parts indicate they too can be predacious. Females that have already mated will sometimes flash signals to a would be male suitor only to lure him in where she will kill and eat him.

Not all fireflies glow but all known larva do. The adults may live up to 3 months and soon after mating the female will lay her eggs in the soil or under some loose bark. The eggs hatch in 3 to 4 weeks and the larva will feed until the end of summer. The larva ‘over winter’ by burrowing in the ground or under bark and emerge in the spring. The larva will feed for a few weeks and then pupate which lasts about 2 weeks. Emerging as adults they begin the process over again.

In my area there aren’t many lightning bugs at night but that does not mean we do not have them. Some lightning bugs are diurnal (active in the day) so they do not produce the glow that so many of us associate with fireflies. Fortunately we do have a few and although I don’t keep a jar on the back porch I still marvel every time I see the glow and think back to my childhood days.

Posted in In my opinion, Occasional Pests | 17 Comments

Roaches prefer Pepsi

Posted on June 27, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

I’m really not sure if this is true but the roaches I saw crawling out of the half crushed can in a huge recycling bin today had no complaints. To be fair there were some Coke cans too but the gnats were so bad I didn’t have time to take a survey.

A lot of people recycle cans and unfortunately this can be the source of many pest infestations. Roaches, ants, earwigs, gnats and even mice can be attracted to stored cans and from there they are able to easily move into the house. Many people store the cans in their garages in bags or garbage containers but seldom think to look at this source when they have sudden invasions. It almost always amazes homeowners when their pest control professional lifts the lid to one of these containers and a hoard of gnats fly out. The same gnats that have been plaguing them for weeks but they could never find just where they were coming from.

Although I see this problem in residential homes all the time I rarely get the call for large community facilities. Obviously you can imagine that if problems develop in these huge dumpsters they can grow way out of control. Today was one of those days and I did just exactly what I would do for a small garbage can filled with aluminum cans only on a larger scale.

If you should experience a pest problem in your recycling container here are some quick steps you can take to eliminate the problem;

  • Double bag the cans and just throw them away.

This gets rid of the source quickly and depending on the bug you may not have any further sightings.

  • Treat the container with a non residual pyrethrum aerosol

I use this type of aerosol because it creates a fog when sprayed rather than a jet type spray. If that’s not handy you can use Raid or something similar but it will be quite messy and you won’t want to handle the cans afterwards. Place the lid back on the container to seal the bugs in and leave it for several hours.

Of course to prevent this from happening it’s always a good idea to rinse your soon to be crushed cans but just as important is to let them dry before storing. Simply place them upside down in the sink after rinsing and allow enough time for the water to drain. Keeping the storage bin clean is also a must as huge populations of gnats can emerge from tiny spills and build up of scum that accumulates at the bottom.

The job I was called out for today was just a build up of the same kind of food source that you get in your recycling bins or cans. Although the dumpster was well away from any homes the gnats were so bad that the people in the community were complaining they couldn’t even get close enough to drop in their bags of cans. The infestation had also spread to the newspaper bin and was really getting out of hand. Roaches were also getting in on the free lunch and had all the comforts of home until I showed up. Hopefully the results will be the same as if I were treating a home but I have a feeling they couldn’t find bags big enough to double and judging by the smell of cans I’m sure I’ll be back.

Posted in Pest proofing series | 3 Comments

Tubes in the slab

Posted on June 26, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

In our on going quest to build pests out of our homes there is a system available that can simplify retreatments of termites once your home is built and potentially eliminates the need for messy drilling and invasive procedures. Tubes in the slab is not a new concept per se. Homes and businesses have used this technique for years to heat floors in cold winters. Warm water is piped through the tubes and the heat radiates up through the floor. The famed Lambeau field that the Green Bay Bay Packers play on has had an under ground heating system for years. With over 30 miles of tubing it is intended to keep the turf from freezing but I think they might have forgotten to turn it on during the ‘ice bowl’ of 1967.

click to enlarge-see red and yellow tubing under plastic

 

The unique thing about tubes in the slab for termite control is that instead of it being a closed system it actually dispenses chemical to predetermined places around the plumbing and foundations under the cement. The sub system only works for subterranean termites and has to be installed during original construction before the cement is poured. Long plastic or neoprene type tubes are ran from a portal box to specific locations where special attached tubing is connected. The attached tubing usually has laser cut slits that allows liquid under pressure to leave the tube and treat the soil around it.

The areas or ‘treating zones’ are predetermined by the building plans and usually include all the plumbing areas and the most suseceptible sections of the foundation. I do not install these systems nor do I put in the ‘in the wall’ pest control tubes but I have yet to see either of the systems that completely goes around the entire structure. This runs contrary to what most homeowners think they are getting when they opt for the extra cost during construction. Both systems do what they are intended to do but it is definately not a ‘whole house treatment’ as one would believe. The homes construction plans or drawings should indicate where these zones are or they can be obtained in your records from the pest company who installed the tubes.

The installation of the tubes in the slab system is not in and of itself a pretreatment for termites. As of this writing I am not aware of any label or law that states this as acceptible. Instead what this product does is offer to the homeowner one more option when either the contract period is up or a problem occurs. The soil that the cement is to be poured on is still suppose to be sprayed according to the label and that will serve as the pretreat for subterranean termites. Usually in 5 to 7 years the company in charge of the termite contract is legally able to opt out of the protection agreement and can either offer you a new treatment or simply walk away. This is where the benefits of the tubes in the slab system come into play.

If you’ve been in your home 5 or more years the chances are that you have made some upgrades. You may have tiled the front porch, laid carpet on the lanai or any number of things. When a new termite treatment is neccesary the company ordinarily has to drill through these obstacles to be able to treat the soil below. The tubes in the slab option may give you an alternative and save your home from some of these scars. There are times when drilling is still needed so don’t be surprised if your tubes technician breaks out a drill to treat an abutting slab. The original company that pretreated the home might be more apt to not drill the slabs but most new companies coming in don’t usually put their guarantees behind someone else’s work done 5 years ago. They may insist on slab drilling to ensure a continuous barrier. These should be questions you ask before you agree to any treatments.

To treat the system it is really quite easy. Special adapters are made that fit at the end of a standard termite rigs hose and using low pressure, termiticide is pumped into the tubes. Flow meters can be used or a timing method to determine how much liquid has gone under the home. The exterior soil of the structure still needs to be treated adjacent to the foundation and that is done by digging and flooding trenches. At this time any slab drilling that needs to be done in order to provide a complete barrier is performed. Tubes in the slab almost always eliminates the need for a bath trap at least for the purposes of termite control since the tubes target these zones.

Tubes in the slab are one more tool in the pest control industries box that has many benefits but is not a complete stand alone treatment. More and more companies are offering service to tube systems and this is good news for the consumer as it should help keep prices reasonable. The way I see it is you’ll never have full access to the soil under your homes slab again once it is set so you should at least consider the tubes system when building. This way if termite issues arise you can still get under ‘the frozen tundra.’

Posted in Termites | 1 Comment

My cat eats earwigs

Posted on June 25, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

Crouton is our cat, actually he is not ours but he does allow us to live with him but he maintains full run of the house. This feline is basically an indoor dweller but sneaks out occasionally to see what he’s missing on the outside world. ‘Crusty’ as I affectionately call him prowls the house (when his 12 hour nap is over) looking to fulfill the ancient urge to hunt his prey. Now I am a professional pest control technician mind you but even in my home a wayward bug has been known to sneak in. No worries, Crusty is soon on the case and tracks the insect to any corner, crack or crevice that the six or eight legged intruder might be in. Sometimes waiting for hours while staring at a picture on the wall our 12 hour pest patrol won’t move until enticed by food or one of my Aussie’s decides to play tag.

Usually speaking our home only has a few bugs from time to time and most of those are earwigs. It can be after a heavy rain or during times of extreme dryness so there is no set environmental cause that brings them in. If perhaps the sightings get to 5 or 6 in a weeks time I refer to the practices that I wrote about in “3 easy steps to get rid of earwigs” and that almost always solves the problem.

Most of these harmless bugs fall prey to the hunting instincts of my cat and about the only way we can identify them is by the forceps still attached to the mangled body. If Crouton misses one during his siesta the innocent insect is still doomed due to my residual insecticide barrier and it isn’t long before he dies. This brings me to my point and it’s a question I get quite a bit in both my business and from my e-mail.

Will my cat die or get sick from eating an earwig after I’ve sprayed?

The answer in short is no but there are a couple of caveats; If you were to directly soak an earwig with pesticide and your cat ate it right then you may have a problem. This would be extremely rare because most animals would be deterred by the chemical smell and may still paw at the intended victim but that’s about it. I can’t imagine too many people would let this occur but it is a possibility.

When an earwig has absorbed enough dried chemical product from his crack or crevice however, there may not be enough chemical for even a cat or dog to detect and the execution would go as planned. In this case your pet may ingest some pesticide but it would be in such a minute amount that it would have no effect.

Most pesticides are made with the lowest possible mammalian toxicity levels or the compounds are already a non factor so there is no worry. Pesticides products also work on body weight and earwigs weigh pretty close to nothing as compared to Crouton who is a svelte 9 lbs. So ol Crusty would need to eat about a bucket full of earwigs to get any measurable amount of pesticides that would do him any harm. By then I think he’d be dead from pincer poisoning more than anything else. There are of course very sensitive animals out there just like people who react to very small amounts of chemicals although that is very rare.

The bottom line is that if your cat is like mine and you catch him with a pair of pincers in his teeth don’t panic. Whether you have or have not sprayed it’s very unlikely to cause him any harm. Of course take him to your vet for anything unusual but don’t be surprised if you find a pair of pincers in the next furball you have to clean up.

Posted in Earwigs | 2 Comments

Net results for mosquito’s is 100%

Posted on June 23, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

Mosquito work can be big business. Trucks are set up exclusively for mosquito spraying and whole routes are built on eradicating this insect vampire of blood. City, state and federal monies are set aside for mosquito control budgets even when coffers are at their lowest and other seemingly more worthy programs are cut. Mankind has always been plagued by mosquitos and we did not always have the upper hand. Untold numbers of pets, wildlife and human beings have been killed over the years by a tiny enemy that is unable to fly against even a stiff breeze but can carry a lethal weapon of disease.

With time and the development of better pesticides and personal repellants the deadly aspect of this insect is hardly a concern for us in the United States.It seems that control of this potentially deadly insect is no more of a cloudy endeavor as science has made great strides. Still with people traveling the world and the sheer numbers of mosquito’s, the threat is always present. Malaria is very rare here now but at one time it took its toll on American lives. Spread by just a few species of mosquito, we must be ever watchful.

Anopheles freeborni is found in the western United States. It was one of the principal mosquito species transmitting malaria (“vector”) in the United States before the disease was eradicated in 1951.

Source: CDC website

Encephalitis which is basically a swelling of the brain can come from a mosquito’s bite has still yet to be eradicated but it is less prevelant now than it has been. Although these results are partially due to better sanitation efforts and better medical care; pesticides are the main reason we enjoy a superior quality of life in this area.

The numbers of mosquito’s is the U.S. hasn’t seemed to change much and there are still days when a picnic or evening stroll are impossible because of the swarms that attack. More than average rainy seasons can trigger tens of thousands of new mosquitos from a single discarded car tire that has standing water in it. Millions upon millions from a small lake or pond and the numbers are probably impossible to determine from across the country.

Many people who are cautious of using chemicals or believe in natural control will use bat houses to help keep populations in check. Odd that bat’s are usually associated with vampires and scary movies but can be so beneficial by killing the true blood suckers in nature. Sanitation is also used in that the old tire get’s its water dumped whenever they notice the life giving stagnant water build up. Rather than applying time tested chemicals like DEET directly on the skin the wary citizens use Skin so soft lotion or Listerine. All sorts of old home remedies are employed in the name of staying true to an organic lifestyle. While there is always an anecdotal or perceived case of success, for the most part these old recipes do very little.

One way which can be one hundred percent effective has actually been in use for thousands of years. Ancient royalty from Egypt all the way to this day have used netting to guard themselves against the dreaded pest. Nets have been fastened to clothing, hats, bedding, carriages, tents, furniture, windows, and boats, hunting blinds, baby strollers, doorways and even animals. This list is only limited by someone’s imagination and the need to protect yourself during a certain activity or event.

Mosquito’s are not in the top 10 of flight skills and they aren’t capable of scurrying effectively across a given surface like a roach. They rely on a quiet soft approach in hopes that the potential host does not detect them so she can get her meal. They are very persistent however and they will buzz all around your protective netting looking for a way in once they’ve honed in on you.

Netting does not have to be tight or professionally installed to be effective. As long as it completely surrounds the area you are trying to protect it should be efficient enough to keep them out. If there is a hole in the net or an opening somewhere the chances are that one or two will eventually find their way in.

Even with the continued advancement of sprays, lotions and preventative sanitation I suspect we will never be without the mosquito. One way that has at least given us 100% control even if it is in limited areas is the mosquito net.

Posted in Flies and Gnats | 4 Comments

Dusting tips

Posted on June 23, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

We can all use a few tips from time to time. Here’s a podcast with a few pointers on pest control dusting that should give you better control of the bugs and save on your chemical expense. Using insecticidal powders or dusts can enhance any pest control effort and reach areas that liquids just can’t. The longevity of the dust means you don’t have to retreat again and again but it also requires that you do it right the first time because a mistake won’t go away for along time.

Make sure to check our article on How to kill bugs using dusts for specific areas you can safely use these techniques as well as other tips that may not be covered in this episode.

Posted in Tools of the trade | Leave a comment

Roaches in mansion’s

Posted on June 22, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

Let’s face it, when we think of roaches in a home we think of disgusting filthy kitchen with six week old cake batter crusted to the wall and the stove is littered with baked on spaghetti noodles and some other unidentifiable goo that seems to take a different shape every time the heat comes on.

I must say there is a good portion of German roach infestations I see that are indeed caused by poor sanitation but there are also accounts that for seemingly no reason at all are over run by this pest. Early in my career I had a 16 room mansion on my route that was clean as whistle. The salesman sold it as a German roach job and with my first look into the kitchen I thought there must have been a mistake. The maid was busy cleaning some wine glasses, not a single thing was out of place and the shine off the floor was like a mirror. They left me alone to do my work and within 10 to 15 minutes I couldn’t believe my eyes. Roaches were coming out of every conceivable crack and crevice and scurrying for some ‘other’ place to hide. I learned a lesson that day and have kept it with me ever since. Roaches love filth and an old rickety house but they can easily move in and adjust to living in a mansion.

I would venture to say that my experience is not unusual and I have seen this so many times since then. These type of accounts always make me nervous, not because I doubt being able to kill the bugs. No, what I watch for is a quick turn and my spray wand knocks over a $30,000.00 statue or ‘heir loom.’ I always marvel that these affluent people with their maids, cleaning crews and every modern convenience can still be infected with a German roach problem. We have many high end homes as clients and very few have any real problems precisely because of their daily maintenance and cleaning but every once in awhile one will throw you for a loop.

The greatest stigma with roaches is that the person ‘is not clean‘ and this bothers so many, especially the ladies. No one wants to be labeled a bad housekeeper and having roaches is a sure sign of that according to most. Now I agree that the absolute worst infestations I’ve ever seen have been in some of the most disgusting homes you’d ever want to set foot in. I won’t go in without my mask, gloves and full body suit because of the gut wrenching stench and god awful mess. Not far behind however have been some beautiful multi million dollar homes that I can only imagine living in with my wildest of dreams. While this may not be of any real consolation to you if you are battling this dreaded plague maybe there is some solace you can take in that German roaches are non discriminate infester’s. (is that a word?)

Regardless if you have designer cabinets with gold plated faucets or if your sink is cast iron from 1968 and adorned with an Elvis clock above it we all share one common kitchen foe. It doesn’t matter to the female roach where she has her 40 to 50 babies. They will scurry off and begin life anew in the autographed Macy’s knife collection box just as soon as they’ll infest the Ronco potato slicer kit.

Below is a kitchen I put together with some key areas and ideas on how to treat them against this insect that plagues us all. While the amenities I’ve chosen seem pristine they all look the same to a cockroach and they’ll be happy to live here just as they would in your home. Treat them both the same and you’re well on your way to roach free living.

click on the picture to enlarge

Posted in Roaches | 1 Comment

500 mice can’t be wrong

Posted on June 20, 2009 by The Bug Doctor

I would think that even the staunchest doubter in the world might at least start to believe there was a problem with rodents when the 500th sighting was reported(and that was in one week). Apparently a nursing home in Queensland Australia was waiting for number 501 and then for sure they were going to do something about it.

In my little corner of the world I can’t imagine ever letting something like this go by. We service some very large nursing homes and I think I drive my guys nuts when a call comes in for ants or a rogue rat. We have a system in place that is checked almost daily by facility staff and if any trends occur a call is put in to me. Usually long before that happens my technician who also checks the logs with each service has the problem inspected, treated, logged and sanitation recommendations are made if any are needed.

Now I’m not even on the top 10,000 list as far as pest control companies go but even a small fry like me knows you need to treat our senior citizens better than this. If you’d like to see how a company who is in the top 5 reacted check out his story and imagine if that was your loved one. Perhaps this is how they got to be such a prominent company and leaders in the industry. See how this kind of problem can be avoided with their sophisticated tracking log. It takes about 30 seconds to load but it’s worth the wait. Maybe this nursing home should consider a bid from Rentokil so this will not happen again.

Does this outrage you? If so leave a comment and share your thoughts.

Posted in Pests in the news | Leave a comment